Category: Tropical Style

Several healthy fruit trees not only give you delicious fruit, but also boost your landscape. Some fruit trees have exceptionally beautiful forms, blossoms, fruits, foliage and even intriguing bark. Though some fruit trees are pest and disease resistant and require little maintenance, others have to be sprayed to remain healthy and beautiful. When planting fruit trees, consider your climate, area, place and the specific requirements of the fruit tree variety.

Apple

Apple (Malus domestica) comprises hundreds of tree varieties. For centuries, artists have captured the beauty of the white or pink apple blossoms in their paintings. Most apple trees require another apple tree for pollination. Disease resistance varies, but many apple trees have to be sprayed with a fungicide to remain healthy. The Fuji apple tree (Malus domestica Fuji) is a newly developed apple variety, growing well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. The Fuji tree contains white blossoms and produces an attractive yellow apple using a red-pink overlay.

Apricot

The apricot tree (Prunus armeniaca) blooms in early spring using white or pink blossoms before leaves appear. The tree grows well in USDA zones 5 through 9 and can achieve a height of 25 feet. The apricot tree contains reddish twigs and 3-inch smooth, heart-shaped leaves. Some varieties of apricot are self-fruitful and also do not have to be pollinated by another tree. See to the apricot tree using fungicide to prevent disease and dormant oil to control insect pests.

Citrus

The family of citrus trees includes lime, orange, lemon, grapefruit and tangerine trees. Although a lot of citrus trees are grown for their fruit, they also create attractive garden trees using their fragrant flowers and shiny leaves. Lemon (Citrus limon) and tangerine or mandarin (Citrus reticulata) trees thrive in USDA zones 8 through 11. Lemon trees arrive in dwarf trees and varieties which can reach 20 feet. The “Eureka” variety blooms and produces lemons all year long. The dwarf “Meyer” variety is hardy, grows well in pots, and produces a sweeter lemon compared to “Eureka.” Tangerine or mandarin tree varieties can reach 12 to 20 feet but are slow growing. Tangerine trees have very fragrant flowers and create an attractive tree in the landscape or in patio containers.

Loquat

Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) is the most frequently grown tree in the genus Eriobotrya. Loquat is a beautiful pyramidal tree, reaching a height of 20 to 30 feet. It has a tropical look with its large textured leaves. Loquat produces fragrant, small, white, flowers in panicles at the end of its divisions. Flowers are followed by clustered orange or yellow, red-tinged fruits. The tree is relatively pest- and also disease-free and wind-tolerant. Loquat adapts to a lot of soil types and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 10.

Persimmon

Persimmon (Diospyros kaki) trees are attractive trees for your home landscape. The trees have little cream-colored flowers in late spring, followed by orange or yellowish 3-inch fruits. The persimmon tree is deciduous and can achieve a height of 20 feet. Its large, oval, dark green leaves turn yellow and dark orange in autumn, putting on a stunning show. Many persimmon tree varieties are relatively pest and disease free and require little maintenance. Persimmon trees thrive in USDA zones 8 through 10.

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Sometimes strawberries grow on trees, although they’re not the familiar fruit of shortcake fame. Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) is an evergreen tree that bears little, red fruits resembling strawberries. You may develop rosemary tree from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11 with best results if you live in a Mediterranean climate with low humidity.

Attributes and Uses

Strawberry tree is a little, slow-growing tree that seldom exceeds 20 feet tall. It has multiple stems that become gnarled with age and striking reddish-brown, shaggy bark. Its current-season flowers bloom in autumn and winter at the exact same time since the previous-season’s vegetables adult. Fruits linger around the trees through winter, where they are a food source for birds. Even though the fruits are edible, they’re not as palatable to people since they are to wildlife. For example an evergreen plant that grows wider with age, strawberry tree functions well when grown as a privacy hedge.

Cultivars

One of strawberry tree’s oyster cultivars is “Compacta,” which seldom exceeds 10 feet tall and broad. It has denser branching and a slower growth rate than the standard form. A more compact cultivar is “Elfin King,” which seldom grows taller than 6 feet. It is particularly suited to growing in patio containers or as specimen plants because of its contorted form. “Rubra” has deep pink flowers instead of the white to faint pink blooms on other varieties.

Site Selection and Planting

All varieties of strawberry tree grow best in acidic soil with good drainage. They tolerate a variety of soil types, including clay, sand and loam. Full sun or partial shade is best, however they don’t succeed in cold climates. Strawberry tree is salt-tolerant, which makes it suitable for coastal areas. Because of its controlled growth, the California Invasive Plant Council advocates you plant strawberry tree for a substitute for invasive species, like Brazilian pepper (Schinus terebinthifolius).

Culture

Strawberry tree is almost unbothered by insect pests and diseases. It is also drought-tolerant once it is established. Because of its strong tap root, Oregon State University notes that you shouldn’t need to water established trees during summer. To open a plant up so its architectural shape and exfoliating bark are highlighted, you can thin its branches. If you sow the seeds you collect from strawberry tree, then they will germinate easily and you can grow crops.

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Persimmon (Diospyros kaki) rises well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10, where they endure a variety of soil types, in addition to moist and drought conditions. Although this adaptability makes it easy to develop persimmons, in addition, it makes it tough to eliminate an established persimmon. After cutting a persimmon tree, the trunk will grow back sprouts and suckers frequently emerge anywhere along the tree root system. Chemical herbicide treatment can help control those persistent persimmons, although repeat program is frequently necessary to achieve complete eradication.

Prepare a 25-percent herbicide solution containing 1 part herbicide and 3 parts of a surfactant, such as diesel fuel or mineral oil. Pour the herbicide alternative in a garden sprayer. Choose a chemical herbicide with a proven effectiveness against persimmons, such as glyphosate, imazapyr or dicamba. Chemicals such as triclopyr ester, hexazinone and tebuthiuron don’t provide effective control of persimmon, particularly when employed as a foliar spray. For optimum control of persimmons, mix two distinct herbicides in the solution.

Spray the leaves of the persimmons using the herbicide alternative until the leaves are fully saturated, either in early summer or late summer but not during the hottest summer months. The herbicide translocates through the leaves down into the main system to kill the persimmons. This system works best for fast application to large stands of persimmons up to 15 feet tall when the persimmons have gone uncontrolled for several decades. If the foliar spray application process is used, don’t use diesel fuel since the surfactant because diesel fuel kills the leaves before translocation can occur. In this case, mineral oil or even vegetable oil is ideal to coat the leaves using the herbicide.

Spray the herbicide solution into the lower 20 inches of the smooth bark on persimmons with trunks less than 6 inches in diameter. Use this technique during the dormant period in winter for the best outcomes. This application system is not as practical with large stands of persimmon brush, but may be necessary if the foliar spray treatment is ineffective. Mix the herbicide solution with diesel fuel for the best results together with the basal bark treatment.

Cut down trees having a diameter of greater than 6 inches, leaving a stump that protrudes a couple of inches from the ground. If a large persimmon tree has been cut, make a fresh cut across the stump so the herbicide proves most successful.

Spray the herbicide alternative on all sides of the stump and on the exposed fresh cut on the top of the stump. As an alternative, you can mix the herbicide option in a little bowl and then apply the solution using a paintbrush for much better control over the program. A 25-percent herbicide solution should provide adequate control together with all the cut stump method, but you can use a 50- to 100-percent alternative for greater results in case the persimmons are a persistent problem.

Allow a few weeks for the chosen program method to take effect, transpiring the herbicide from the point of program down to the origins. Reapply the herbicide or attempt a different program method if no noticeable change happens following three weeks. Duplicate as required when new shoots emerge until the persimmons are fully eradicated.

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Strategic shrub pruning maintains your lawn looking tidy when contributing to the plant’s health. In fact, yearly pruning prevents disorders from setting in while you eliminate dead leaf that impedes new growth. Blending your pruning with suitable fertilizing supplies the shrub with nutrients for healthy growth and flowering.

Evergreen Shrubs

Because evergreen shrubs do not lose their leaves in fall, you may be uncertain about when to prune them. Like other plants, evergreen shrubs create new growth in spring, if daylight hours increase, and you ought to prune in June or July, after the development subsides. Fertilize evergreen shrubs in September if the temperatures start to drop. Shrubs tend to prevent growth during hot summer weather and the roots do not utilize the fertilizer nutrients as effectively in summer. Sticking to fertilize in fall will help encourage wholesome growth the following spring.

Flowering Shrubs

If you have flowering shrubs, then you normally prune them after the last booming period in spring. This previous bloom might be in the midst of spring, depending on the kind of shrub. Fertilize these shrubs in late spring once you have finished pruning. Because the flowering shrub still has a number of its growing period before this, the fertilizer bolsters the shrub’s nutrients and encourages more leaf growth to get a dramatic blooming period next spring.

Fertilizing According to Age

Shrub nutrient needs change as the plant matures. Young shrubs, which are still growing, need fertilizers using more nitrogen. This component provides one of the major building blocks for chlorophyll production in leaves and photosynthesis cannot occur without a wholesome source of nitrogen. As shrubs mature, they simply need a balanced fertilizer for basic dirt upkeep. Your pruning should still be performed during its typical intervals, but you want to look at your soil’s mineral levels using a test kit before fertilizing mature shrubs. Over- or under-fertilizing is harmful to some plant.

New Plantings

Should you recently transplanted pruned shrubs, do not fertilize them for the first year. It’s better to soften them the following spring so that they have an opportunity to acclimate to the new dirt texture and pH. Transplants are highly sensitive and may be damaged or burned by a fertilizer application right after planting.

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Flowing water and erosion can clean away seeds and young plants in an embankment long before they become established. Whether it is time to repair a bare embankment, seeding is often the most economic option and can triumph with the correct preparation. Plant choice for the embankment can also be significant. Perennial grasses, such as fescues (Festuca), bluegrass (Poa), perennial ryegrass (Lolium), lyme grass (Elymus) and tufted hair grass (Deschampsia), all work nicely for seeding an embankment and helping to control erosion. Frequently a mixture of similar or those grasses is used because some varieties become established more quickly than other varieties.

Remove all rocks, tree stumps, present vegetation and other debris in the embankment. Anything larger than two or three inches in diameter should be removed.

Till the embankment to a depth of 2 inches to loosen and aerate the soil. Scatter a low-nitrogen starter fertilizer, such as a 6-20-20 fertilizer mixture, above the embankment. Till the embankment to a depth of 3 to 4 inches.

Spread grass seed uniformly over the embankment. The seed can be spread by hand or by using a lawn seeder. The application rate of the grass seed varies from one type of seed to another type; follow the specific instructions you received with your own seed.

Lay an erosion-control mat over the embankment. Overlap the sections of the mat. Secure the mat to the embankment by driving metal staples to the ground, which makes the staples level with the soil. It’s especially important to guarantee the cap of the mat is protected.

Water the newly seeded embankment by means of a sprinkler or drip-irrigation system. Avoid applying too much water too quickly since the consequent washout could sweep away the grass seeds.

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Native plants have a high survival rate because almost all of them are already adapted to growing in their native climate. Because many indigenous plants have been drought-tolerant, they do well in the drier terms of a container or window box, especially in heat, Mediterranean-style climates.

Container Shrubs

Native shrubs are more suitable to grow in containers rather than window boxes in which the bushy branches block the view from the window. One native shrub that grows well in a container is that the desert ruellia (Ruellia peninsularis), a native to Southern California in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. This 4-foot-tall sun-loving plant produces a dense mass of glossy leaves and purple petunia-like blossoms appearing in the late spring. Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) is a southwestern shrub that grows in USDA zones 8 through 11. When implanted in the ground, this sun-loving bush attains 20 feet tall with long spiny stems that stay bare during dry spells. This plant quickly grows leaves and crimson flowers after it rains.

Annuals for Containers and Window Boxes

Showy indigenous annuals grow well in containers and window boxes. Pick short- to average-height plants to grow in the window boxes. Native to the Pacific West is that the California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), which reaches about 12 inches tall with ferny green leaves and summer cup-shaped flowers offered in golden-orange, yellow, cream and red. This native annual closes its petals during cloudy weather. Remove the spent blooms to keep the plants out of developing seed pods. Farewell to spring (Clarkia amoena) produces pink cup-shaped blossoms on sprawling 1- to 3-foot-long stems. This summer flower closes at night and opens again in the morning, welcoming visiting honeybees.

Perennials for Containers and Window Boxes

Short native perennials can endure for years in containers and window boxes. Using perennials eliminates the need to replant the containers every year. One creeping indigenous perennial is that the redwood sorrel (Oxalis oregana), which grows in USDA zones 7 through 9. This shade-loving plant produces shamrock-shaped leaves and white or pink cup-shaped flowers from spring through autumn on 6- to 12-inch-tall stems. “Siskiyou” evening primroses (Oenothera speciosa “Siskiyou”) grow pale pink summer blooms in USDA zones 4 through 8, reaching 8 to 10 inches tall in full sun. Pinch off dying flowers to protect against that perennial from reseeding itself.

Window Box Native Vines

Native vines work best in window boxes in which the stems cascade over the edge of the rim. These plants need a little trim to maintain the size of the vines short enough so that they do not hit on the ground. One native vine is that the “Amethyst Falls” American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens “Amethyst Falls”), which grows well in USDA zones 5 through 9. This deciduous vine reaches 8 to 10 feet long, and is covered in purple flower clusters from spring through summer. “Chauga” wild hydrangea vines (Decumaria barbara “Chauga”) create woody stems reaching up to 40 feet long as back. Clusters of snow white flowers appear in the summer and the dark green leaves turn tan-colored in the autumn. This native vine brings butterflies and grows in USDA zones 7 through 9.

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The citrus fruits commonly called Clementines (Citrus reticulata “Clementine”) are small, thin-skinned mandarin oranges. The sweet treats are a variety of class II tangerines, according to Purdue University. Often seen in shops around the fall vacations, they’re desirable for their usually seedless pulp, smooth skin and petite size. Clementine trees vary in size based on the time of this tree and also the cultivation habits of this grower. They’re winter-hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11.

Tree Appearance

Clementine trees are as appealing as the fruit: compact, around and usually free of thorns, though some hybrids are spiny. The trees have long, slender, bright-green leaves that stand out vigorously against the bright orange of this fruit. Clementine trees possess a rounded crown formed from the drooping branches. They aren’t dense trees, so they don’t require much pruning, as stated by the University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. Sometimes they’re pruned to mend damaged branches, as the wood is brittle and tends to break.

Tree Size

Mandarin trees in general achieve a maximum height of about 25 feet and width of 12 feet. They’re classified as medium-sized trees. Most don’t achieve their maximum size, nevertheless. Just the oldest trees achieve this height. The Clementine tree can be pruned to stay much smaller, though it requires less pruning than other citrus trees. Some Clementines and other citrus trees are cultivated as bushes rather than prepared to develop on one pioneer as a tree. Clementines may also be grown in containers, either inside or outdoors. These potted trees usually range between 8 and 11 feet in height.

Fruit Size and Appearance

Clementines are the smallest among the mandarins. The fruits average a little more than 2 inches in diameter, tending to be somewhat broader than tall. Their small size, coupled with the sweet taste of this pulp, means that they are most frequently consumed as snacks rather than used for canning or juicing. The fruits have bright orange, smooth skin and rich, red pulp.

Cultivation

Clementine trees must be cultivated correctly to achieve their optimum lawns. They enjoy warm but not humid conditions, which means they can’t be easily grown outdoors in many regions of the southern United States. The trees grow best and make the most fruit when cultivated in subtropical conditions, according to the Texas A&M; Agrilife Extension. Clementines prosper in well-draining soil and full sunlight. The fruits are normally prepared for harvesting in November and December, but the fruit is occasionally damaged from early frosts.

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Even in landscapes, small ponds make an ecosystem of their own, sustaining plants and creatures that wouldn’t thrive in the drier conditions of a conventional landscape. Various types of plants thrive in a pond environment and boast features that make them lovely additions to the landscape around a house.

Flowers

Many types of flowers make their houses in or near ponds. The Santa Cruz water lily (Victoria cruziana), which resides in the U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10, is one of the biggest, with floating lily pads that can reach 8 feet broad and 16-inch flowers that move from white to pink in a single evening. A smaller waterlily is the “Sunny Pink” (Nymphaea “Sunny Pink”), which creates lotus-like flowers in USDA zone 4 through 10 and pads that hit only 12 to 18 inches round. Beside the water, water-friendly plants such as the “Deutschland” astilbe (Astilbe x arendsii “Deutschland”), which grows in USDA zone 4 through 9, thrive from the always moist soil.

Trees

Nearby the water, trees provide shade to animals through the hottest part of the day and precious soil stability with their extensive root systems. Trees that live close lakes are adapted to additional wetness and comprise larger species such as the river birch (Betula nigra), which resides in USDA zone 4 through 9 and grows rapidly to 40 feet tall, and many smaller varieties such as the “Kilmarnock” willow (Salix caprea “Kilmarnock”), which resides in USDA zone 4 through 8 and grows only to about 8 feet tall.

Shrubs

When many shrubs favor drier soil conditions, some are adapted to the constant wetness of existence at the banks of a pond. The “Chirimen” marlberry (Ardisia japonica “Chirimen”) thrives in USDA zone 6 through 9 from the shaded areas near a pond, producing deep green leaves and white flowers in the summertime that give way to bright red berries in winter.

Grass

Close to the banks and even partly submerged, several species of grass thrive. “Sparkler” sedge (Carex phyllocephala “Sparkler”), which resides in USDA hardiness zone 7 through 10, grows in exploding clumps of cream-rimmed short green blades, while variegated Japanese sedge (Carex morrowii “Aurea-variegata”), which thrives in USDA zone 5 through 9, grows as tall as a foot, with mild green blades that hang lazily close to the water’s edge. Grasses such as the horsetail reed (Equisetum hyemale), which resides in USDA zone 3 through 11, can spend a lot of the time with their foundation under water while their long stalks shoot up to harvest energy from sunlight.

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The type of soil in your lawn determines how well you can develop plants and what types of plants will do best. Soils support plant roots and supply plants with oxygen, nutrients and water. How well they do that depends upon the dirt particle type and size. Sand is the largest particle, silt is clay and smaller particles are tiny. Loamy soils have a combination of three particle sizes, and sandy loam contains about 60 percent mud, 10 percent clay plus 30 percent silt. It’s good drainage and can develop many types of plants well, especially if it’s amended so it contains more organic thing.

Root Vegetables

Sandy loam has a good texture, without heavy clods of clay or accumulations of stone. This is the very best land for growing root plants where the roots require unobstructed, even dirt. Three commonly grown root vegetables prefer loamy sand. Carrots (Daucus carota) become Reducing or forked in heavier soils, and don’t grow well. The roots of beets (Beta vulgaris) won’t expand in clay soils. Beets are biennials which develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. Radishes (Raphanus sativus) prefer sandy loam or sandy soils. Onions (Allium cepa) grow well in sandy loam because they need good drainage and a non-compacted dirt which allows for bulb expansion.

Leafy Vegetables

Although lettuce (Lactuca sativa) may tolerate many different soil types, it grows best on a sandy loam that has been amended with organic matter. Sandy loam warms up more quickly in the spring than do heavier soils, therefore sandy loam is the best soil for early types of cabbage (Brassica oleracea). Later-maturing cabbage cultivars prefer a more moisture-retaining soil. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) is a shallow-rooted harvest that requires good drainage. It prefers sandy loam, which allows the more frequent watering required without building up excessive root humidity.

Other Vegetables

Rumors (Solanum lycopersicum) are heat-loving plants which get off to a good beginning in the garden if planted in loamy sand, which provides the good drainage and early higher temperatures that the plants require. As the plants gain dimensions and the weather warms, strawberries may require more water than plants on heavier soils. Rumors grow as perennials in USDA zones 8 through 11, but are usually treated as annuals. Additionally a plant tolerant of many soil types, peppers (Capsicum annuum), that develop in USDA zones 10 through 11 or as a yearly, prefer a well-draining loam or sandy loam.

Ornamental Plants

Drought-tolerant ornamental plants are adapted to withstand periods with low moisture once they are created. They require a loose, open ground texture their roots may quickly penetrate, such as sandy loam, and good drainage so that the roots don’t stay moist, which promotes root rot. A wide root system allows them to effectively harvest nutrients and water. Plants that thrive in sandy loam comprise “Panchito” manzanita (Arctostaphylos x coloradoensis), which rises in USDA zones 4b via 8b, and California lilac (Ceanothus spp.) . “Julia Phelps” California lilac (Ceanothus “Julia Phelps”), that will be hardy in USDA zones 8 through 10, bears abundant blue blooms in spring and early summer.

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The evergreen “Alii” ficus (Ficus maclellandii “Alii”) makes a good houseplant — its roots grow slowly, minimizing the need to re-pot the plant. It can also grow outside year in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it may finally reach a height of 10 feet. This plant only requires basic attention to thrive, but it is important to recognize the signs of underwatering or overwatering to keep the plant healthy.

Warning Signs

To decide whether an “Alii” ficus has been underwatered or overwatered, look closely in the plant. If it has not been getting enough moisture, then its roots might be damaged, preventing water from getting into the plant. This could slow growth, cause borders of leaves to turn brown and might cause wilting or falling of leaves and young shoots. If the “Alii” ficus is a houseplant, you might also see dry dirt pull away from the sides of the pot. Overwatering can also cause leaves to fall, but they generally turn yellow first or maybe you observe soft, brown leaf spots that indicate rotting. You might also observe moldy spots on the leaves and the dirt might smell musty.

Watering Correctly

An “Alii” ficus typically requires an ordinary quantity of water, but this may also depend on some degree on its growing conditions. When it’s grown in a warm, dry or brightly lit spot, it likely needs more water, while expanding it in low light or shade lowers the plant’s need for water. It’s best to check the plant’s soil regularly, to ascertain exactly if it needs water. Examine the dirt with your fingertip and water only when the top 1/2 inch feels dry to the touch. When watering, do so thoroughly, until water drains in the pot. Always allow the excess water to drain and never to leave a potted plant standing in a water-filled saucer. For an outdoor-grown plant, then check the dirt often for dryness and also aim for about 1 inch of water weekly, including from rain.

Other Care

The “Alii” ficus is native to the warm climates of India, Southeast Asia and China. Due to this, it may be sensitive to cold water, which may eventually lead to loss of leaves, so use tepid water for a plant grown indoors. If your plant is in the garden, don’t water it directly from the hose — instead, use a water-filled bucket or watering can that has been allowed to sit in ambient temperature for a few hours. If your “Alii” ficus is potted and appears to dry out every few days, this may indicate that the origins have overheard the container, so move it into a new, bigger pot, and always choose a pot with a drainage hole. For an outside plant which dries out quickly, add 2 or 3 inches of mulch, such as straw or shredded bark — place it on the ground under the plant’s canopy to help preserve soil moisture.

Recovery

If you’ve overwatered or underwatered that an “Alii” ficus and many or all its leaves have dropped and stems appear dry, then it is probably too late to save the plant. But if you’ve caught the problem early, when damage is just beginning to look, the plant is likely to recover fully. When it is a houseplant, store it in a well-ventilated room that is between 55 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, in a spot that gets bright indirect light — too much sun through a hot window may lead to scorching of tender new growth. Cut back any branches which don’t reveal new leaves after a few weeks, wiping your blades with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol between cuts to avoid spreading plant infection.

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