Category: Fireplaces

Grocery bags in hand, you make your way to the back door only to be confronted by a terrifying sight, a skunk. Anyone who has faced down a skunk, and it has lost is well aware of the caustic spray emitted from the striped beast’s scent gland, which, as stated by the University of California, can be sprayed as far as 6 to 10 feet. Be aware that rabies is rampant within the skunk population. Deterring or removing skunks from your lawn is possible through appropriate sanitation and trapping.

Eliminate any potential sources of food. Including removing any outdoor dog dishes and bird feeders, picking up fallen fruit and covering your trash cans. Placing a heavy object, such as a brick, in addition to the can also prevent the skunk from tipping it over in search of a quick meal.

Clean up heaps of brush or stacks of timber, and trim any overgrown shrubs. All of these offer an attractive hiding area to get a skunk.

Install motion detecting sprinklers around your lawn. The combination of the water spray and the sound created by the moving sprinkler head is sufficient to frighten skunks away from your lawn.

Care for your lawn for white grubs. White and other lawn grubs are relished as food from skunks. Overseeding your lawn and maintaining it properly fertilized and irrigated can help to eliminate the lawn grub infestation. The introduction of predacious nematodes — including Heterorhabditis bacteriophora and Steinernema carpocapsae — is just another effective, natural way to control lawn grubs.

Set up a live trap near the entrance of the skunk’s den. Before nightfall, bait a plastic box snare with a can of tuna or cat food. Vinyl box traps provide more protection against being sprayed than wire models do. When you have captured the skunk, contact your local Fish and Game office prior to relocating the beast. Since skunks are known carriers of rabies, a permit is required before you may release the skunk in another location.

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It can be hard to become mothball smell from your clothing or furniture, which can be a good reason to keep moths away. The reason that mothball odor lingers is because the seams or balls split into small pieces that lodge from the weave of fabric or wood pores. You may be able to wash these out of clothing, but the best treatments for furniture are warmth, ventilation and sunlight.

Mothball Ingredients Are Bad for You

Mothballs and moth crystals are two distinct goods, however they have the same scents and consequences of moths and other insects. The active ingredient in mothballs is naphthalene, while at moth crystals, it is paradichlorobenzene. Both these aromatic hydrocarbons can sublimate — switch from solid to vapor form without getting liquid — and produce similar feature, toxic smells; exposure to compound can cause dizziness, nausea and diarrhea. Naphtalene is the more toxic of both; it’s the capability to be a carcinogen, according to the World Health Organization.

Deodorizing Clothing

Sun and air are the best treatments for mothball smells in clothing, so hang your influenced clothing on a clothesline and leave it for many days. If the weather doesn’t cooperate, you could also care for the clothing by washing it with laundry detergent and a cup of vinegar. Stubborn scents may require over just one washing or addition of a cup of baking soda to the wash water. Make sure that the water is already in the drier before adding baking soda, of you’ll have a volcano of foam on your hands. You can even treat clothing by stuffing it in a paper bag with crumpled newspaperthat will absorb the odor over a span of many days.

Deodorizing Upholstered Furniture

Leaving your furniture outside in the sun is one way to handle mothball scents, but this isn’t always sensible. In case you need to keep it from the home, the next best plan is to turn the heat up in the room and ventilate the area around the furniture using a fan. The heat increases the rate of sublimation while the fan dissipates the odor — preferably through an open window. Since the odor comes from microscopic crystals that are embedded into the fabric, scrubbing or brushing are seldom helpful; just turn the heat up; turn on the fan and wait.

Deodorizing Woodwork and Mothball Alternatives

If the mothball smell is coming from woodwork on your home or in a wooden piece of furniture, such as a chair, you could be able to reduce or remove the odor by sanding it. If the wood already includes a finish, brushing or spraying another coat seals from the crystals and stops the odor. To prevent mothball odors in the future, consider safe, natural options. You can make your own moth-repelling sachets by filling cheesecloth bags with combinations of herbs and spices. 1 recipe calls for 2 ounces all dried honey and honey, 1 oz all ginseng and honey, and 8 ounces of whole cloves. Combine these in a bowl and fill your sachets using the mix.

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Preventing squirrels from ruining a harvest of fruit is always a challenge for fruit growers. Squirrels (Scuiridae) can eat or damage all types of fruits, including citrus. Although no permanent solution for keeping squirrels away from vegetables is known, some deterrents work better than others. Because squirrels learn rapidly, the optimal solution is to work with varying methods, switching them often to help prevent the wily creatures from figuring out ways around them.

Traps

One of the best approaches to prevent squirrels from eating fruits is to remove the animals through trapping or baiting. Baited kill or live traps must be put along known squirrel avenues for the best results. Trapping has its own set of complications, however, because releasing live squirrels is illegal in some areas and killing them is illegal in different places. Trapping and baiting also require one or even a professional to lure, trap and dispose of their squirrels properly without damaging different types of creatures. Additionally, if you remove one squirrel, another may take its position. Assess your place’s laws to learn whether it is legal to trap, bait, kill or release squirrels. Always wear heavy duty gloves and other protective clothing when handling divers.

Wraps

Wrapping your fruit trees from plastic, small-holed netting or deer fabric will keep squirrels from their fruits. Anchor the cover to the trees by using clips, clothespins or delicate ties, and shut all of slits along with other holes through which squirrels could slip. Trim the trees’ limbs so they are away from objects can use to jump on the trees. Two disadvantages to wrap fruit trees are high winds, which can loosen the wrap stuff, and squirrels’ ability to chew holes in the material, giving them entryways to the fruits.

Metal Barrier

A hanging, 2- to 3-foot-long sheet metal collar set closely around each fruit tree’s trunk can prevent squirrels from climbing the back. This method is effective only when squirrels do not have an alternate method to get into the trees. Hang each metal collar so its top is at least 6 feet above the ground, out of squirrels’ leaping range. Drill holes in the cover of the metal heels, screw soft ties through the holes and then use the ties to hang every single collar from its tree’s limbs. Do not attach the steel collars to trees by driving screws or nails into the trees’ trunks. The metal collars should be removed following the fruit harvest.

Hanging Objects, Sprays and Coatings

Hanging shiny or brightly coloured objects like old compact discs, windsocks or wind chimes from the branches of your fruit trees will keep squirrels away. Squirrels are relatively smart, nevertheless, and will quickly bypass these solutions when they realize the items won’t hurt them. Hanging the objects from ornament hooks allows you to change the objects readily. Try switching the sort of hanging objects every few days to slow the squirrels’ learning curve. Coating a tree’s trunk and lower limbs with oil jelly mixed with hot pepper powder or oil makes the tree surface shiny for squirrels to grip. Additionally, predator scent and capsaicin sprays implemented regularly can discourage roaming squirrels; they may have to be implemented after rainfalls. Before handling or using coatings and sprays containing capsaicin, put on clothing which will protect your eyes and skin from the irritation capsaicin can cause.

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The wall area behind your couch is prime decorating real estate. The space is usually six to eight feet wide and stretches from the back of the couch all the way to the ceiling. All that blank space requires something large to fill it. Big doesn’t have to mean costly, however. Large just means a lot of visual effect.

Fabric is Fabulous

Fabric is an inexpensive way to bring colour and interest to your walls. If you want the country appear, a massive quilt hung behind the couch makes a room feel cozy and welcoming. If the country look isn’t your style, fabric stretched over a cheap panel produces a simple do-it-yourself project. Locate a piece of cloth that appeals to you and get enough to cover a large part of wall behind the couch. Use fabric starch to adhere the fabric to the panel, then frame it out with painted trim from the home improvement store and attach with wall anchors or secure to studs.

Go for a Gallery

Group lots of smaller things together to create big visual effect. It can be artwork, pictures, pressed flowers under glass or just about anything you can put in a frame. Gather up a selection of frames from the craft or art supply store, or comb secondhand stores for mix-and-match frames you can paint all 1 shade. Fill them with your favourite pieces and arrange them behind the couch. Change the images seasonally to keep things interesting.

Mirror, Mirror on the Wall

A huge mirror may appear great, but it can be costly. You can attain a similar effect by hanging a grouping of smaller, less costly framed mirrors. Check out discount stores and secondhand stores, especially during sales whenever there’s lots of affordable decor to be found. Utilize a grouping of matching mirrors, or even gather several mismatched mirrors to make a reflective gallery. You can always paint the mirror frames so the colours all fit, or paint them to match your colour scheme.

Odds and Ends

Mirrors, photos and artwork aren’t the only things that function as a gallery screen supporting the couch. Any selection of comparatively flat items can make the gallery effect. Antique silver trays, flat baskets, an old door or headboard, a group of maps or even vintage record covers. The trick to making a set gallery function is finding something uniform among them. In a selection of trays, they are all reflective silver. For record covers, then you might place all of them in matching frames. Whether it’s colour, frame, shape, texture or material, utilize a frequent element to pull the items together, then set them at an attractive pattern above the couch.

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I like to tinker with my laundry room by adding small decorative or organizational developments here and there. Occasionally the smallest changes can make a significant difference. I am hoping that the ideas that are next will be the inspiration needed to pretty-up your laundry area! — Elaina from Fun Finds for Mother

Honey-Do Triple Laundry Sorter – $67.99

This is very like my laundry sorter, which kind of changed my whole outlook on laundry. The children really like to provide each other rides at the cart and use it within their fancy fort creations. Fun for the whole family!

Buy

Amazon

Wood Clothespins – $9.13

Display a lot of wooden clothespins at a glass storage container, then grab them when you need them!

Oliver Yaphe

Canvas Laundry Hamper – $84

It is always beneficial to have an extra hamper on hand, especially if it’s one as beautiful as this canvas hamper by Oliver Yaphe.

The Home Depot

LG Electronics Compact Front Load Washer In White – $999

While not a little addition, a glistening white front-load washer and dryer set is in my laundry area wish list.

Anchor

Modern Montana Jar

These jars are great for keeping everything from powdered laundry detergent to clothespins.

www.ikea.com

SLOM Bottle with stopper – IKEA

I have one of those glass bottles full of dish soap in my kitchen counter tops. The exact same could be carried out with liquid laundry detergent. I seems so much better than an ugly plastic jug!

Amazon

Landmark Schoolhouse One-Light Pendant Bronze – $375

Let there be light! My laundry area that is ideal has a couple of those pendants hanging down from the ceiling.

IKEA

KNODD Bin With Lid, White – $24.99

When I gave my laundry area a mini makeover a couple of years before, I added this bright white bin from IKEA. It is the ideal place to toss used dryer sheets, trash from pockets along with other laundry-related trash. Additionally, it is very simple to wipe clean.

Lehman’s

Galvanized Washtub – $39.95

If your laundry room doubles as a storage area, bins such as these galvanized wash tubs are useful for storing bulky products.

STACKS AND STACKS

Retractable Drying Line – $6.99

Zip out a drying point when you need it for this retractable wall-mounted unit.

Bed Bath & Beyond

Wall Mounted Ironing Center – $219.99

I might actually iron clothing if I had a wall mounted ironing board similar to this one!

Ballard Designs

Beadboard Drying Rack – $89

This beadboard drying rack tucks out and out of the way when you’re not using it to hang hand-washables to dry. It comes in black, honey or rubbed white.

Loll Designs

BBO2 table – $394

My children really like to hang out while I do laundry. When there’s room on your laundry room, a children play table, such as this one from loll layouts (created from recycled milk jugs), is a fun addition. I have a similar desk in my laundry room that I use for washables which need to dry apartment.

Loll Designs

Chair – $199

Have the children pull up a seat to a little table and help with the folding — or match up a pair of socks.

Modularity Tiles

Custom Designed Vinyl Tile Floors

I would really like to pay the cement floor of my laundry room with those vinyl ModularityTiles. They are offered in die-cut circles and rounded squares which you may mix and match from 17 color choices — fun!

The Laundress

Stain Brush – $10

I have a thing for wood-handled brushes. This one is from the Laundress and is especially made to scrub out laundry stains.

Steele Canvas

Colored Canvas Baskets

Industrial Steele canvas laundry carts are all super functional and I really like their appearance. They are going to be coming out with coloured canvas baskets soon!

The Home Depot

Martha Stewart Living Cubbie-Storage Bench With Seat – $72.98

Maximize storage space. In addition they have coordinating cloth bins which slip directly into the cubbies.

IKEA

Vika Hyttan/Vika Moliden Table – $189

I can envision my laundry room wall with two of those Ikea stainless steel tables lined up to get freshly laundered clothing for folding.

West Elm

Colored Metal Footed hitter – $14

These little retro clocks are perfect for popping on a laundry room shelf to let you know how long you’ve been sudsing your own duds.

Next: Where to Stash the Washer and Dryer

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Squirrels are clever animals, as any gardener knows, and consume a wide variety of foods, however, usually, squirrels don’t eat fish from ponds. Squirrels swim if required, but they usually dislike water and avoid it. If a delicious, freshly dead fish were accessible, though, a hungry squirrel may make the most of it.

Squirrel Diet

Squirrels have a diverse diet which leans toward the vegetarian side nuts, seeds, berries, berries, tree buds in spring and fungi. They also eat some meat — earthworms and even the occasional bird egg or unlucky nestling. Squirrels eat dead birds, but they don’t typically chase or kill live ones, except for nestlings. A bird killed by a window strike is extra nutrition for a hungry squirrel, especially during winter.

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You don’t want their larvae living or the bugs in your backyard although particular beetles were once considered by the Egyptians sacred. Beetle larvae are voracious eaters that feed on a broad assortment of plant roots, including vegetables, fruits and turf grass. Transplants and young seedlings are susceptible to feeding damage, but various control methods can allow you to get rid of backyard grubs and protect your vegetable crops.

About Grubs

White grubs are the larvae of various beetle species, including Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica), masked chafers (Cyclocephala spp.) and May or June beetles (Phyllophaga spp.) . Grubs vary in appearance according to species, but typically range to 1-1/2 inches in length and have white to gray bodies with heads. Most species pops up into the shape of a”C” when disturbed. Once mature beetles mate in the spring, females lay approximately 15 to 20 eggs to 8 inches. The eggs hatch and the grubs munch on the surrounding roots and plant parts during the summertime. The grubs emerge in the spring to keep feeding, after overwintering beneath the soil. This cycle continues until a grub reaches maturity and pupates in its year, typically into adulthood.

Grub Damage

Grubs have life cycles that allow them to do great damage to your own vegetable plants until they become adults if left untreated. Feeding activity can cause surface scars and shallow holes . Plants can experience wilting, stunted growth or even death, and mature plants suffer with big grub populations. Before you even know you have a problem, because they concentrate on their work plants can be quickly damaged by them. Damage takes place when grub-infested garden regions attract predators, including birds, skunks, armadillos and raccoons, while digging up the pests, some of which might injure your vegetable plants.

Cultural Control Methods

By eliminating potential overwintering sites, Avoid grub infestations. Eliminate old garden plants and until the soil to a depth of approximately 7 inches after harvesting your final crop. Wait two to three weeks and until again. Cultivate the soil again in the spring, tilling approximately two inches. (This helps expose hibernating grubs into the elements and hungry predators. Look for grubs beneath vegetable plant leaves and round the stems at the soil line. Wearing gloves to protect your skin from possible irritation, remove grubs you find and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Handpicking is very time-consuming, although effective and has to be done for pest control that is optimal.

Utilizing Milky Spore Disease

Inoculating garden soil with bacterial spores of Bacillus popilliae, commonly referred to as milky spore disease, can help you achieve grub control. After grubs eat the spores the bacteria multiply inside the larvae. Affected pests expire in approximately seven days. As a lifeless decomposes, it release the spores back into the soil for beetle larvae to eat. Read and follow the directions on a producer’s tag because instructions vary. 1 product advocates using a spreader to evenly put milky spore disease granules across regions that are growing. Water the bacterial spores into the soil within 24 hours of application. Apply milky spore disease bacterium in summer, the spring and fall for two years in a row to let the fleas actually build up in the soil. Following that, the illness self-perpetuates, and the treatments can provide you over 10 years of grub control.

Grub Prevention

Grub worm infestations by adult beetle people on your own vegetable garden. The females are kept by spreading row covers from laying eggs in the soil, as does handpicking the adults and dropping them. Place the row covers until seedlings emerge, but remove them so insects can reach the blossoms if the plants begin blooming. Oil is. Before using, carefully read and follow the application instructions and safety precautions on the label of the product. 1 neem oil product advocates thoroughly mixing two tablespoons of oil concentrate. Use a garden sprayer that is handheld to thoroughly moisten all plant surfaces. Till you no more spot any adult beetles, repeat treatments.

A Few Considerations

Neem oil is toxic to honeybees, although milky spore disease won’t hurt any insects that are beneficial. Plants with neem oil in the morning or around dusk to avoid spraying on the pollinators and minimize the danger of leaf burn. Keep pets and relatives out of the treatment area until the oil spray dries. Though not harmful to pets or people, neem oil and spore disease treatments can nevertheless cause skin and eye irritation on contact. Wear a face mask, goggles, work gloves, long sleeves, socks and pants with shoes.

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Before committing to the relationship that communicates a mortgage, living suits mobile urban lifestyles and allows renters to sample the ambiance and amenities of the great areas of San Francisco. Not every apartment in our historic town, however, is intended to accommodate contemporary furniture. If you should realize your pendant chandelier or light misses the middle of your dining table or hangs too low, visit the local hardware store and buy a cheap swag kit to improve its looks and rescue your taller guests from having to crouch when they visit.

Turn off the power for the fixture in the breaker box.

Eliminate the finial or bolts that secure the fixture. Disassemble dome lights to get to the bolts. Chandeliers have mounting bolts on a base plate. Have bits are taken by a helper as you take the fixture apart or help so its weight doesn’t yank the wires encourage it.

Remove the bracket that spans the ceiling box. Remove the wire nuts, divide the wires and set the fixture apart. Recap the distribution wires with the wire nuts.

Drill a hole in the ceiling — typically 1/8 to 1/2 inch diameter — just big enough to acknowledge that the toggle. Load the kit bolt into the toggle, twist it facilitate it, center first, through the gap and closed. Twist the bolt to the left to open the wings and twist the base of the hanging hook onto it.

Measure the distance in the ceiling box and add the fall — the distance the new fixture will hang in the ceiling — plus the distance in the ceiling box to the hook. Cut a length of chain and that length of wire to produce the swag.

Thread 1 end of this swag wire through the middle of the bracket. Connect the swag wire to the supply wire from the ceiling box, then matching black to black and white . Twist each pair of wires and cap using a wire nut. Affix the bracket with the 2 bolts throughout the ceiling box included in the kit. Drill a hole, even if one is not present and insert the threaded collar using the bracket for the chain.

Thread the wire through the bracket and plate and attach the plate to mounting bracket or the ceiling box. Weave the wire through the chain and connect the end of the wire and chain to the pendant or chandelier fixture.

Catch the chain on the hook so that it”swags” in the ceiling plate to the hook and the light fixture hangs in the desired height below the hook.

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Houses, like the ones built before World War II, had little or no rust, particularly. With modifications to building codes to conserve energy, builders and homeowners began adding insulation. Insulation, under roofs and particularly in attics, may have a considerable impact regardless of the sort of heating or cooling. Check building codes prior to including insulation, as some historical areas may have limitations on opening walls to install insulation.

Fiberglass or Cellulose

A loft or under a roof is the simplest place to add insulation in an old property. These materials lose their efficacy over time, although old houses had some attic insulation, usually cellulose or stone wool. The simplest way to add attic insulation is ceiling joists between or across with fiberglass batts laid over the current insulation. Cellulose or other loose fill insulation is another choice.

Rigid Foam

Foam is another widely used method of incorporating under-roof insulation. Rigid foam panels fastened between roof rafters, or can be laid over existing insulation, such as batts. The most common are extruded polystyrene and polyisocyanurate, although several types of foam panel can be found.

Spray Foam

A fantastic alternative for walls would be spray foam. This is a substance is coated inside the walls as a liquid. It expands to fill spaces inside a cavity. Spray foam’s drawback is that eliminating plaster or drywall on the inside or from drilling holes through exterior siding must opens, either walls. Some areas that are historical restrict this.

Interior Spray Foam

Spray foam also can be utilized in attics and between roof joists but this normally requires professional installation. The foam is sprayed to a bay, such as and permitted to expand, then the excess is trimmed off using a utility knife or saw.

Exterior Insulation

Exterior insulation can be inserted on either a roof or on walls in conjunction such as a new roof or siding. Foam panels are the insulating material of choice to incorporating or re-roofing siding. Panels are secured onto the wall or roof sheathing and other roofing or shingles or any kind of siding can be inserted.

Information Sources

Check for insulation Choices in industry or government information sources, like the Department of Energy, the North American Insulation Manufacturers Association or the California Energy Commission. California is in the middle of the insulation scales, roughly currently in Zone 3. Insulation R values measure immunity to heat but also affect so air does not escape by blocking the flow of heat, cooling and hot air does not infiltrate.

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Despite my 20-plus years in the upholstery industry, there were times that I bit the bullet and hired upholsterers for my furniture. And more than once, I was in complete shock when my furniture came to me with style changes that I had not asked. Those upholstery defects stand out like sore thumbs and really irritate me. Upholstery labor and fabric are costly; you do not want to lament mistakes which could have been averted by having a small conversation with your upholsterer until it’s too late.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

1. Frame repair. Until your upholsterer requires a peek under the covers, it’s probably not clear what needs to be glued, clamped and tightened up. Many upholsterers make small repairs as a courtesy, but it’s a good idea to inquire about the price of more significant frame repairs.

From teardown to final trim, a good upholsterer earns every cent he or she creates.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

2. Spring linking or substitute. Your chair might have springs which have come unsprung or need replacing. Very good upholsterers will mechanically retie springs and replace bent springs until they begin. It’s ideal to know up front if you’ll be billed extra for spring repair.

A peek under the front of this chair seat shows threadbare burlap and untied springs.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

Springs come in many different sizes and shapes; they form the best base for chair seats.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

Some framework tightening and fix could be required before the upholstery work, also.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

3. Fabric. Have a thorough discussion about your fabric. If your fabric will be shipped, ask your upholsterer to phone when it arrives, so you can go over each of your fabric directives. Write everything down to your upholsterer to stay with any other notes.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

4. Pattern. Whether you want a fully upholstered chair or a very simple dining chair, the fabric pattern needs to match up when you look at the final piece from front. Be cautious if you want a particular fabric motif on the trunk, also. If you are mixing materials, draw a picture to show where each part of the fabric pattern should go.

If your routine is misaligned, it will drive you mad. Vertical or horizontal, only make sure the designs lineup.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

5. Cushions. Specifically say whether you want all-new foam, a Dacron- or – down-wrapped cushion, or a complete down-filled pillow fit. Establish the desired foam thickness and remember that the normal height for seats would be 18 to 20 inches in the floor.

Discuss the foam density you want. Chairs should be a greater density than the back cushions. And ask for a breakdown of the cushion costs; this really is a price which often gets lost from the total project, but it can really add to the bottom line. Discuss what your upholsterer’s policy will be if you are not happy with how the cushions sense when you get your furniture back.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

6. Style. There is more than one method to finish the front arm panels on chairs, love seats and sofas. Explain how you want the arm panels to seem; deliver sketches or photos so you realize each other. Do not leave this up to your upholsterer to pick the design for the arm fronts.

7. Skirts. If your sofa has a traditional fabric skirt round the bottom and you are ready to see more of the legs, define no skirt. The bottom edge may now need some cording, so you need to specify that. The legs will also have to look good now that the skirt’s been removed. Figure out whether you’ll be billed for the work on the wood, but eliminating the skirt must bring your total cost down because skirts generally coat a little more. If you’d like a skirt to be inserted to an unskirted piece, make sure to pay more; be sure to discuss the skirt style (yes, there are different styles of skirts) and the height at which you want it to be attached. Also specify whether the furniture will sit on a carpet or a hardwood floor, and how high you want the base of the skirt to be off the floor.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

8. Cording. Would you want fabric-covered welt cording around certain areas of your furniture? Let your upholsterer know where you want it. If you have a piece that has fabric stapled or tacked right up against exposed wood, you’re probably going to want a fabric-covered dual welt cord made and attached rather than using premade braid trimming. If you’d like cording, then you will want to supply more fabric. Consult your upholsterer how much more you’ll need.

9. Sides and backs. Chair, love seat and sofa sides and backs should have fabric and padding beneath the outside fabric panels. Before attaching the exterior fabric panels, there should be a base fabric that shuts the hollows of the framework, with cotton or Dacron batting attached. If these layers are omitted, the exterior arms and back are hollow and appear flat and unprofessional. You generally find that on inexpensive new furniture and on really poorly done reupholstered pieces.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

10. Detailed instructions. Finally, make certain there are photographs, sketches, fabric swatches, written instructions and anything else you can think of so that you and your upholsterer have an comprehension of how your piece will appear when it’s finished.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

Very good upholsterers will do the job right, but in case you’re looking for bargain prices, you could be surprised from the shortcuts you will notice when you get your furniture back. It never hurts to define just what you want. When a recently upholstered piece of furniture turns out right, everyone’s happy.

More:
11 Distinctive Details for Upscale-Looking Upholstery

Search the expert listings to get an upholsterer near you

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