Guest Groups: Laundry Room Mini Makeover

I like to tinker with my laundry room by adding small decorative or organizational developments here and there. Occasionally the smallest changes can make a significant difference. I am hoping that the ideas that are next will be the inspiration needed to pretty-up your laundry area! — Elaina from Fun Finds for Mother

Honey-Do Triple Laundry Sorter – $67.99

This is very like my laundry sorter, which kind of changed my whole outlook on laundry. The children really like to provide each other rides at the cart and use it within their fancy fort creations. Fun for the whole family!



Wood Clothespins – $9.13

Display a lot of wooden clothespins at a glass storage container, then grab them when you need them!

Oliver Yaphe

Canvas Laundry Hamper – $84

It is always beneficial to have an extra hamper on hand, especially if it’s one as beautiful as this canvas hamper by Oliver Yaphe.

The Home Depot

LG Electronics Compact Front Load Washer In White – $999

While not a little addition, a glistening white front-load washer and dryer set is in my laundry area wish list.


Modern Montana Jar

These jars are great for keeping everything from powdered laundry detergent to clothespins.

SLOM Bottle with stopper – IKEA

I have one of those glass bottles full of dish soap in my kitchen counter tops. The exact same could be carried out with liquid laundry detergent. I seems so much better than an ugly plastic jug!


Landmark Schoolhouse One-Light Pendant Bronze – $375

Let there be light! My laundry area that is ideal has a couple of those pendants hanging down from the ceiling.


KNODD Bin With Lid, White – $24.99

When I gave my laundry area a mini makeover a couple of years before, I added this bright white bin from IKEA. It is the ideal place to toss used dryer sheets, trash from pockets along with other laundry-related trash. Additionally, it is very simple to wipe clean.


Galvanized Washtub – $39.95

If your laundry room doubles as a storage area, bins such as these galvanized wash tubs are useful for storing bulky products.


Retractable Drying Line – $6.99

Zip out a drying point when you need it for this retractable wall-mounted unit.

Bed Bath & Beyond

Wall Mounted Ironing Center – $219.99

I might actually iron clothing if I had a wall mounted ironing board similar to this one!

Ballard Designs

Beadboard Drying Rack – $89

This beadboard drying rack tucks out and out of the way when you’re not using it to hang hand-washables to dry. It comes in black, honey or rubbed white.

Loll Designs

BBO2 table – $394

My children really like to hang out while I do laundry. When there’s room on your laundry room, a children play table, such as this one from loll layouts (created from recycled milk jugs), is a fun addition. I have a similar desk in my laundry room that I use for washables which need to dry apartment.

Loll Designs

Chair – $199

Have the children pull up a seat to a little table and help with the folding — or match up a pair of socks.

Modularity Tiles

Custom Designed Vinyl Tile Floors

I would really like to pay the cement floor of my laundry room with those vinyl ModularityTiles. They are offered in die-cut circles and rounded squares which you may mix and match from 17 color choices — fun!

The Laundress

Stain Brush – $10

I have a thing for wood-handled brushes. This one is from the Laundress and is especially made to scrub out laundry stains.

Steele Canvas

Colored Canvas Baskets

Industrial Steele canvas laundry carts are all super functional and I really like their appearance. They are going to be coming out with coloured canvas baskets soon!

The Home Depot

Martha Stewart Living Cubbie-Storage Bench With Seat – $72.98

Maximize storage space. In addition they have coordinating cloth bins which slip directly into the cubbies.


Vika Hyttan/Vika Moliden Table – $189

I can envision my laundry room wall with two of those Ikea stainless steel tables lined up to get freshly laundered clothing for folding.

West Elm

Colored Metal Footed hitter – $14

These little retro clocks are perfect for popping on a laundry room shelf to let you know how long you’ve been sudsing your own duds.

Next: Where to Stash the Washer and Dryer

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Do Squirrels Eat Fish out of Ponds?

Squirrels are clever animals, as any gardener knows, and consume a wide variety of foods, however, usually, squirrels don’t eat fish from ponds. Squirrels swim if required, but they usually dislike water and avoid it. If a delicious, freshly dead fish were accessible, though, a hungry squirrel may make the most of it.

Squirrel Diet

Squirrels have a diverse diet which leans toward the vegetarian side nuts, seeds, berries, berries, tree buds in spring and fungi. They also eat some meat — earthworms and even the occasional bird egg or unlucky nestling. Squirrels eat dead birds, but they don’t typically chase or kill live ones, except for nestlings. A bird killed by a window strike is extra nutrition for a hungry squirrel, especially during winter.

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Can Grub Worms Eat Vegetable Roots?

You don’t want their larvae living or the bugs in your backyard although particular beetles were once considered by the Egyptians sacred. Beetle larvae are voracious eaters that feed on a broad assortment of plant roots, including vegetables, fruits and turf grass. Transplants and young seedlings are susceptible to feeding damage, but various control methods can allow you to get rid of backyard grubs and protect your vegetable crops.

About Grubs

White grubs are the larvae of various beetle species, including Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica), masked chafers (Cyclocephala spp.) and May or June beetles (Phyllophaga spp.) . Grubs vary in appearance according to species, but typically range to 1-1/2 inches in length and have white to gray bodies with heads. Most species pops up into the shape of a”C” when disturbed. Once mature beetles mate in the spring, females lay approximately 15 to 20 eggs to 8 inches. The eggs hatch and the grubs munch on the surrounding roots and plant parts during the summertime. The grubs emerge in the spring to keep feeding, after overwintering beneath the soil. This cycle continues until a grub reaches maturity and pupates in its year, typically into adulthood.

Grub Damage

Grubs have life cycles that allow them to do great damage to your own vegetable plants until they become adults if left untreated. Feeding activity can cause surface scars and shallow holes . Plants can experience wilting, stunted growth or even death, and mature plants suffer with big grub populations. Before you even know you have a problem, because they concentrate on their work plants can be quickly damaged by them. Damage takes place when grub-infested garden regions attract predators, including birds, skunks, armadillos and raccoons, while digging up the pests, some of which might injure your vegetable plants.

Cultural Control Methods

By eliminating potential overwintering sites, Avoid grub infestations. Eliminate old garden plants and until the soil to a depth of approximately 7 inches after harvesting your final crop. Wait two to three weeks and until again. Cultivate the soil again in the spring, tilling approximately two inches. (This helps expose hibernating grubs into the elements and hungry predators. Look for grubs beneath vegetable plant leaves and round the stems at the soil line. Wearing gloves to protect your skin from possible irritation, remove grubs you find and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Handpicking is very time-consuming, although effective and has to be done for pest control that is optimal.

Utilizing Milky Spore Disease

Inoculating garden soil with bacterial spores of Bacillus popilliae, commonly referred to as milky spore disease, can help you achieve grub control. After grubs eat the spores the bacteria multiply inside the larvae. Affected pests expire in approximately seven days. As a lifeless decomposes, it release the spores back into the soil for beetle larvae to eat. Read and follow the directions on a producer’s tag because instructions vary. 1 product advocates using a spreader to evenly put milky spore disease granules across regions that are growing. Water the bacterial spores into the soil within 24 hours of application. Apply milky spore disease bacterium in summer, the spring and fall for two years in a row to let the fleas actually build up in the soil. Following that, the illness self-perpetuates, and the treatments can provide you over 10 years of grub control.

Grub Prevention

Grub worm infestations by adult beetle people on your own vegetable garden. The females are kept by spreading row covers from laying eggs in the soil, as does handpicking the adults and dropping them. Place the row covers until seedlings emerge, but remove them so insects can reach the blossoms if the plants begin blooming. Oil is. Before using, carefully read and follow the application instructions and safety precautions on the label of the product. 1 neem oil product advocates thoroughly mixing two tablespoons of oil concentrate. Use a garden sprayer that is handheld to thoroughly moisten all plant surfaces. Till you no more spot any adult beetles, repeat treatments.

A Few Considerations

Neem oil is toxic to honeybees, although milky spore disease won’t hurt any insects that are beneficial. Plants with neem oil in the morning or around dusk to avoid spraying on the pollinators and minimize the danger of leaf burn. Keep pets and relatives out of the treatment area until the oil spray dries. Though not harmful to pets or people, neem oil and spore disease treatments can nevertheless cause skin and eye irritation on contact. Wear a face mask, goggles, work gloves, long sleeves, socks and pants with shoes.

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How to Use a Swag Kit for a Light Fixture

Before committing to the relationship that communicates a mortgage, living suits mobile urban lifestyles and allows renters to sample the ambiance and amenities of the great areas of San Francisco. Not every apartment in our historic town, however, is intended to accommodate contemporary furniture. If you should realize your pendant chandelier or light misses the middle of your dining table or hangs too low, visit the local hardware store and buy a cheap swag kit to improve its looks and rescue your taller guests from having to crouch when they visit.

Turn off the power for the fixture in the breaker box.

Eliminate the finial or bolts that secure the fixture. Disassemble dome lights to get to the bolts. Chandeliers have mounting bolts on a base plate. Have bits are taken by a helper as you take the fixture apart or help so its weight doesn’t yank the wires encourage it.

Remove the bracket that spans the ceiling box. Remove the wire nuts, divide the wires and set the fixture apart. Recap the distribution wires with the wire nuts.

Drill a hole in the ceiling — typically 1/8 to 1/2 inch diameter — just big enough to acknowledge that the toggle. Load the kit bolt into the toggle, twist it facilitate it, center first, through the gap and closed. Twist the bolt to the left to open the wings and twist the base of the hanging hook onto it.

Measure the distance in the ceiling box and add the fall — the distance the new fixture will hang in the ceiling — plus the distance in the ceiling box to the hook. Cut a length of chain and that length of wire to produce the swag.

Thread 1 end of this swag wire through the middle of the bracket. Connect the swag wire to the supply wire from the ceiling box, then matching black to black and white . Twist each pair of wires and cap using a wire nut. Affix the bracket with the 2 bolts throughout the ceiling box included in the kit. Drill a hole, even if one is not present and insert the threaded collar using the bracket for the chain.

Thread the wire through the bracket and plate and attach the plate to mounting bracket or the ceiling box. Weave the wire through the chain and connect the end of the wire and chain to the pendant or chandelier fixture.

Catch the chain on the hook so that it”swags” in the ceiling plate to the hook and the light fixture hangs in the desired height below the hook.

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The Way to Install Insulation in an Old House

Houses, like the ones built before World War II, had little or no rust, particularly. With modifications to building codes to conserve energy, builders and homeowners began adding insulation. Insulation, under roofs and particularly in attics, may have a considerable impact regardless of the sort of heating or cooling. Check building codes prior to including insulation, as some historical areas may have limitations on opening walls to install insulation.

Fiberglass or Cellulose

A loft or under a roof is the simplest place to add insulation in an old property. These materials lose their efficacy over time, although old houses had some attic insulation, usually cellulose or stone wool. The simplest way to add attic insulation is ceiling joists between or across with fiberglass batts laid over the current insulation. Cellulose or other loose fill insulation is another choice.

Rigid Foam

Foam is another widely used method of incorporating under-roof insulation. Rigid foam panels fastened between roof rafters, or can be laid over existing insulation, such as batts. The most common are extruded polystyrene and polyisocyanurate, although several types of foam panel can be found.

Spray Foam

A fantastic alternative for walls would be spray foam. This is a substance is coated inside the walls as a liquid. It expands to fill spaces inside a cavity. Spray foam’s drawback is that eliminating plaster or drywall on the inside or from drilling holes through exterior siding must opens, either walls. Some areas that are historical restrict this.

Interior Spray Foam

Spray foam also can be utilized in attics and between roof joists but this normally requires professional installation. The foam is sprayed to a bay, such as and permitted to expand, then the excess is trimmed off using a utility knife or saw.

Exterior Insulation

Exterior insulation can be inserted on either a roof or on walls in conjunction such as a new roof or siding. Foam panels are the insulating material of choice to incorporating or re-roofing siding. Panels are secured onto the wall or roof sheathing and other roofing or shingles or any kind of siding can be inserted.

Information Sources

Check for insulation Choices in industry or government information sources, like the Department of Energy, the North American Insulation Manufacturers Association or the California Energy Commission. California is in the middle of the insulation scales, roughly currently in Zone 3. Insulation R values measure immunity to heat but also affect so air does not escape by blocking the flow of heat, cooling and hot air does not infiltrate.

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Get the Upholstery Work You Anticipate: 10 Details to Discuss

Despite my 20-plus years in the upholstery industry, there were times that I bit the bullet and hired upholsterers for my furniture. And more than once, I was in complete shock when my furniture came to me with style changes that I had not asked. Those upholstery defects stand out like sore thumbs and really irritate me. Upholstery labor and fabric are costly; you do not want to lament mistakes which could have been averted by having a small conversation with your upholsterer until it’s too late.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

1. Frame repair. Until your upholsterer requires a peek under the covers, it’s probably not clear what needs to be glued, clamped and tightened up. Many upholsterers make small repairs as a courtesy, but it’s a good idea to inquire about the price of more significant frame repairs.

From teardown to final trim, a good upholsterer earns every cent he or she creates.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

2. Spring linking or substitute. Your chair might have springs which have come unsprung or need replacing. Very good upholsterers will mechanically retie springs and replace bent springs until they begin. It’s ideal to know up front if you’ll be billed extra for spring repair.

A peek under the front of this chair seat shows threadbare burlap and untied springs.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

Springs come in many different sizes and shapes; they form the best base for chair seats.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

Some framework tightening and fix could be required before the upholstery work, also.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

3. Fabric. Have a thorough discussion about your fabric. If your fabric will be shipped, ask your upholsterer to phone when it arrives, so you can go over each of your fabric directives. Write everything down to your upholsterer to stay with any other notes.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

4. Pattern. Whether you want a fully upholstered chair or a very simple dining chair, the fabric pattern needs to match up when you look at the final piece from front. Be cautious if you want a particular fabric motif on the trunk, also. If you are mixing materials, draw a picture to show where each part of the fabric pattern should go.

If your routine is misaligned, it will drive you mad. Vertical or horizontal, only make sure the designs lineup.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

5. Cushions. Specifically say whether you want all-new foam, a Dacron- or – down-wrapped cushion, or a complete down-filled pillow fit. Establish the desired foam thickness and remember that the normal height for seats would be 18 to 20 inches in the floor.

Discuss the foam density you want. Chairs should be a greater density than the back cushions. And ask for a breakdown of the cushion costs; this really is a price which often gets lost from the total project, but it can really add to the bottom line. Discuss what your upholsterer’s policy will be if you are not happy with how the cushions sense when you get your furniture back.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

6. Style. There is more than one method to finish the front arm panels on chairs, love seats and sofas. Explain how you want the arm panels to seem; deliver sketches or photos so you realize each other. Do not leave this up to your upholsterer to pick the design for the arm fronts.

7. Skirts. If your sofa has a traditional fabric skirt round the bottom and you are ready to see more of the legs, define no skirt. The bottom edge may now need some cording, so you need to specify that. The legs will also have to look good now that the skirt’s been removed. Figure out whether you’ll be billed for the work on the wood, but eliminating the skirt must bring your total cost down because skirts generally coat a little more. If you’d like a skirt to be inserted to an unskirted piece, make sure to pay more; be sure to discuss the skirt style (yes, there are different styles of skirts) and the height at which you want it to be attached. Also specify whether the furniture will sit on a carpet or a hardwood floor, and how high you want the base of the skirt to be off the floor.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

8. Cording. Would you want fabric-covered welt cording around certain areas of your furniture? Let your upholsterer know where you want it. If you have a piece that has fabric stapled or tacked right up against exposed wood, you’re probably going to want a fabric-covered dual welt cord made and attached rather than using premade braid trimming. If you’d like cording, then you will want to supply more fabric. Consult your upholsterer how much more you’ll need.

9. Sides and backs. Chair, love seat and sofa sides and backs should have fabric and padding beneath the outside fabric panels. Before attaching the exterior fabric panels, there should be a base fabric that shuts the hollows of the framework, with cotton or Dacron batting attached. If these layers are omitted, the exterior arms and back are hollow and appear flat and unprofessional. You generally find that on inexpensive new furniture and on really poorly done reupholstered pieces.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

10. Detailed instructions. Finally, make certain there are photographs, sketches, fabric swatches, written instructions and anything else you can think of so that you and your upholsterer have an comprehension of how your piece will appear when it’s finished.

Upholstery Club’s Shelly Leer

Very good upholsterers will do the job right, but in case you’re looking for bargain prices, you could be surprised from the shortcuts you will notice when you get your furniture back. It never hurts to define just what you want. When a recently upholstered piece of furniture turns out right, everyone’s happy.

11 Distinctive Details for Upscale-Looking Upholstery

Search the expert listings to get an upholsterer near you

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Making Room: Discover New Models for Tiny NYC Apartments

Following Mayor Michael Bloomberg announced the winner of New York City’s adAPT NYC competition in the Museum of the City of New York in late January, 2013, he toured the Making Room exhibition that opened the next day. The exhibition, organized by the museum together with the Citizens Housing & Planning Council (CHPC), is subtitled New Designs for Housing New Yorkers, ” and it explores this subject through layout strategies that react to CHPC research on the city’s changing demographics in addition to through finalists’ entries in the adAPT NYC competition, some precedents beyond the town and an entire 325-square-foot apartment. This last piece received the most attention and gave the mayor some fantastic photo ops, but as we will see, it is simply a part of the narrative.

The exhibition and competition are linked through the housing council’s findings which nontraditional households (singles and couples without kids) are on the rise, but there is not sufficient housing stock in their opinion. The city states that there are 1.8 million residents who are singles and couples, but only 1 million studio and one-bedroom apartments in all five boroughs. The competition aims to reach a pilot project with microunits averaging about 300 square feet. The exhibition, on the other hand, is a mixture of hypothetical jobs and design alternatives for living flexibly and economically within small spaces. Both are directed at making New York City cheaper to singles and couples.

Here’s a look inside the Making Room exhibition, which runs in the Museum of the City of New York before September 15, 2013.

John Hill

The exhibition is about the museum’s upper floor, at a gallery that is, unsurprisingly, little. Architectural models and drawings occupy about half the distance, with the rest dedicated to a full-scale microapartment designed and supplied by Clei and Resource Furniture and together with design by Amie Gross Architects. The floor plan is a stubby “L,” together with the living area and kitchen on the long side and the bathroom on the brief side; the entry is between the kitchen and bathroom.

Going into the apartment feels similar to entering an Ikea showroom, given the contemporary furnishings, but the emphasis is on versatility — the living room also acts as a bedroom; the kitchen may be utilized as a dining room; wall storage becomes a home office.

Here we see one wall of the dwelling room, with a couch, open shelves and overhead storage behind doors. The white and shelf panel are key into the space’s versatility.

John Hill

The panel hides a Murphy bed (the Atoll 000), which folds down to flip the living room into a bedroom. What’s unique about this layout is how it straddles the couch: simply move the cushions into the side and the bed may be pulled down. Another nice design touch is the way the shelf stays horizontal, so in theory the items on the shelf do not need to be moved every time the bed is moved up or down.

John Hill

Next into the Murphy bed is full-height storage for coats and other garments. A light comes on once the door is opened, and the clothing rack can be pulled out (notice the mechanism on the side) for easier accessibility.

John Hill

Opposite the Murphy bed is a wall with storage, a moving panel with a flat-panel TV attached to it and a bar behind the TV. A vertical support behind the TV hides the wires and allows it to move about 3 feet from side to side.

John Hill

On the same wall as the moving TV is a storage unit with doors which hides a drop-down desk. As with the closet next to the bed, a light has been built to the piece, over a shelf where notes may be hung with magnets.

John Hill

The kitchen is L-shaped and little, both in terms of dimensions and appliances and fittings — the sink is little, and the refrigerator is beneath the counter, for instance. As much as possible is moved off the counter (such as the microwave) to maximize counter space, one area where even larger apartments in Manhattan are inclined to be missing.

Flexibility from the kitchen is sold through a dining table tucked beneath the counter. It rolls out and contains a leaf that doubles its size, therefore it can seat two comfortably. Folding seats are hung on the wall near the front doorway.

John Hill

The majority of the exhibition out of this full-scale microapartment is dedicated to suggestions for many different new home types which are not permitted under present laws. As an instance, small units (less than 400 square feet) are prohibited in most parts of the town, but those might ideally function as unrepresented demographic. This is the focus of this adAPT NYC competition.

A team headed by Deborah Gans proposed extensions to Tudor-style houses in a neighborhood of Astoria, Queens (near where I live, coincidentally). Current laws don’t permit the proposed extensions, which can be envisioned as accessory components for the old or young. The coloured roofs emphasize the now-illegal areas that would add space to single-family houses.

John Hill

A version of one house shows how the attachment extensions would be executed in a similar speech into the first.

John Hill

Architect Peter Gluck’s team proposed microlofts of 232 square feet and 15-foot ceilings. Each unit includes a sleeping loft and a lesser area which may be used for living, working or both in a flexible layout. The kitchen is small (more of a sink with burners than a complete kitchen), but communal areas, like laundry space and worktables, are supplied. Five components are located on each floor inside walk-up buildings that may be situated on normal infill lots. A variance will be required to permit windows overlooking narrow side yards in addition to for such tiny units.

John Hill

Stan Allen and Rafi Segal proposed “Block/Tower” as a flexible reuse of allegedly obsolete office buildings in midtown Manhattan. Their project sits in the opposite spectrum of the suggestions from Gans and Gluck, who targeted small-scale areas outside of the city’s commercial cores.

John Hill

Their version shows the omnipresent curtain-walled glass boxes of the portion of Manhattan, yet with cuts at the base and up the building, to create “vertical neighborhoods.”

John Hill

Another version and accompanying drawing readily illustrate the idea of open, potentially green spaces snaking buildings up, a means of creating shared spaces inside the vertical neighborhood.

John Hill

Next is a scheme proposed by a team headed by Jonathan Kirschenfeld, an architect famous for developing strangely shaped sites deemed unbuildable by programmers to get single-room-occupancy (SRO) homes. Kirschenfeld is an authority in tiny units, and he applies his expertise to a different demographic on three tons along the Grand Concourse in the Bronx. As the model gets clear, the larger scheme comprises a greening of the boulevard to boost the desirability of dwelling on the wide thoroughfare.

John Hill

The proposal comprises a lot of unit forms, like the studios which share a bathroom in the model at right. This sort of plan isn’t brand new (he has used it in SRO layouts, and dormitories use exactly the same design), but Kirschenfeld is a strong critic of innovation in home design, using spoken on events that a large part of the alternatives have already been done.

The Initial microunits are coming to NYC. Take a mini tour
Research the Small Homes segment

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Time Travel to ers' Childhood Homes, Part Two

In this second round of ers’ youth homes, you’ll see the exact powerful connections people have with these distinctive places. Several of you are renovating the houses you grew up in, a few are living very near the houses you grew up in, others are re-creating the houses you grew up in or picking houses that remind one of the ones you grew up in. A number of you have popped into the houses you grew up in for a trip (inhabited by relatives living there, fresh owners that became friends or new owners favorable enough to encourage you in) or simply enjoyed driving. One er became a professional due to the admiration she had for the house she grew up in; yet another is writing a book inspired by her youth community.

Please check out each of the stories from the original Call and continue to add your stories and images of your houses.

Time Travel to ers’ Childhood Homes, Part 1

Dorset, England. “I had the joy of growing up in the home in the center of the island (Portland, Dorset, England), whose community I didn’t fully appreciate at the time, that’s now the topic of a novel I am writing,” says user deniseqaqish. The decoration was my mother’s (complete with multicolored plastic stripes as a doorway decoration — very ’60s), the alleyway was my play area, and the shop next door was where I worked!

“The island is linked to the mainland by a narrow causeway and steeped in history,” deniseqaqish adds.

West Hartford, Connecticut. “That is the home I remember the most fondly, from when I was about 5 to 13 years old, back in the mid-1950s,” says er emsbutler. “That is a recent photograph, but it looks the same, except the new owners turned the screened-in porch into a space. My mom planted lots and lots of rhododendrons from the front lawn, which are gone now. The memories of playmates, our puppy, a pet rabbit, playing in the leaves and skating in the tiny pond near are so much a part of that home.”

Baltimore, Maryland. “The home I recall best we lived for eight years. At the time I thought it had been enormous, though it appeared smaller than I recalled once I returned as an adult,” says christina.

“It was built in 1880, and it was a constant project removing layers and layers of wallpaper and paint, refinishing the wood floors, repairing the old slate roof,” she says. “Nevertheless, it was a fantastic home, with pocket doors and rooms tucked here and there.

My brother and I had the whole third floor to ourselves (which had an extremely narrow, winding stair, hence the adults didn’t like coming up) . I recall when both of us found a hidden staircase that went from the kitchen china closet up to the linen closet on the second floor. We loved that home, but I believe our parents were happy when we moved to a more modern home that didn’t have quite so many issues.”

Gates, North Carolina. “My dad was in the Marine Corps for 30 years, so I really didn’t have a ‘household’ house, but I remember my mother being skilled at turning any place we lived right into a cozy home,” says user caci. “This included a World War II Quonset hut in Adak, Alaska! I married a farmer and now reside in an 1889 farmhouse in Gates, North Carolina, that reminds me so much of my grandmother’s home in Harrisonburg, Virginia.”

Bellevue, Washington. “It’s funny how you remember things — I always thought the home I grew up in was huge! It was a fine, comfy size but was not as enormous as I recall it,” says Sammi Thielen. “My bedroom was the one on the left, and I remember when it snowed, which was not too frequently in Bellevue, Washington, I would sit and look out my big window and watch the snow fall under the streetlight. I recall it being so peaceful and quiet. The home was a trilevel and had, in the time, the most beautiful gold shag carpets — we had a little sterile carpet rake to help keep it looking fine! Tons of wonderful memories from that house.”

Waynesboro, Pennsylvania. “I grew up in a Sears & Roebuck kit house,” says user hjracer. “My parents lived in their forever home for 45 years and just sold it to move into a retirement community. It was built in 1929. It was sad to say goodbye to my childhood home, but another young family bought it to continue many happy memories in a tiny bit of Americana history.” Hjracer’s childhood home was known as the Crescent.

ers, you may recognize some of those kit homes seen in these youth home ideabooks; they were built all over the country. I know there’s a Crescent somewhere around my neighborhood; I am eager to go find it now.

Laguna Beach, California. user joymaker and her husband like to drive by her husband’s childhood home. “It’s on Top Drive in Laguna Beach … we drive by when attending annual high school reunions. It was built using many different bricks and is filled with charm,” she says.

Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. Occasionally, you can go home again. “I made Ottawa 15 years back. I was lucky in my last trip back (only the second in 15 years) to be able to walk throughout my childhood house (sooo grateful to the new owners),” says Cathy. “This three-story home was magnificent — there was a living area on the first floor, bedrooms on the moment and my father’s office library on the next floor,” she describes. “My dad built that front porch, and he also built the coated indoor pool. The new owners have promised it superbly. It will always feel like home to me”

Medford, Oregon. A well-known local architect built this Pacific Northwest house. “Bob Bosworth designed our home in Medford, Oregon, and it was built in 1959,” says user chrdan.

Birmingham, Alabama. “My family lived in at least five homes in three nations when I was growing up,” says beverly_crawford. “The very first house I remember living in was in Birmingham, Alabama, along with Shades Mountain in an area called Bluff Park, from 1966 to 1974. Our home was a brick ranch with three bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. I wish I’d found an image of the silver aluminum tree with the color wheel spotlight that was exhibited in our living room window. As children we played out from sunup to sundown. There were no fences in anyone’s yards. There was a creek that ran through our neighborhood and a mountain so steep in the end of the road that we were prohibited to ride our bicycles onto it.”

She adds, “The first home my husband and I purchased was in Houston, Texas — a three-bedroom, two-bathroom ranch. It took me a few years to realize that the 2 homes wore each other on the exterior.”

Highland Park, Illinois. “The very first home we had was a fabulous 1930s Tudor with nooks and crannies, sloping rooflines and window seats,” says lilybeach. “The next was a dreadful ranch home my parents loved, built in 1968. They loved using a new house. I hated sleeping on the first floor, and overlooked all of the architectural surprises of this very first place. As a result, I’ve loved and lived in old homes ever since. My oldest home was built in 1787; my hottest, 1930.”

Additionally in Highland Park, Illinois. “The home I grew up in was a midcentury contemporary in Highland Park, Illinois, built in 1957,” says Carol Moses. “My dad is an architect and designed the home. They have lived in this home for 55 years and love it.”

“I had been so affected by the home I grew up in that I became an architect,” Carol Moses continues. “I like clean lines, lots of light and believe less is more. The little girl on the rocking horse is me.”

Yukon, Canada. “I grew up in a 1960s home in a fantastic neighbourhood from the Yukon,” says user tourere. “The house didn’t look big in the road, since the lawn came up to cover the bottom level, however it had four bedrooms, a large second living area (my dad’s study) and a large room that housed the freezer, camping equipment and all sorts of canned goods. There were two bathrooms, one with bathroom and shower/tub and another with only a bathroom. This was problematic when there were three teenaged girls (plus their friends) needing to shower in the afternoon.”

“But as a result I’ve never been that keen on the en suite thought, as I enjoyed that it had been an area that we all had to talk about,” tourere persists. “It’s where I watched my dad brush and learned how to whiten my teeth. Both things I love as I return would be the fantastic food storage/pantry and the big picture window. As I child and when I go home to visit my mom, I love looking out the window and seeing exactly what the neighbors are up to — that has a new baby or puppy and who’s learning how to ride a bike. I now reside on a farm in New Zealand, however from our deck we can see down the road, and my son enjoys looking at the tractors and trucks drive beyond. If I were to reside in a city again, I would need to be on the road with a view.”

Austin, Texas. “I recently remodeled and moved into my childhood home in Austin, Texas,” says katrina50. “My parents built the home from the early 1960s. I recently remodeled the master bedrooms, bathrooms and added hardwood floors; however, I did maintain the pine living space.”

“It did have a Nutone intercom system that has now been replaced with newer technology,” katrina50 says.

Cincinnati. Michael Long of Ridge Carpentry is also pleased to be renovating a youth home. “I am fortunate enough to have bought my childhood home in the Pleasant Ridge area of Cincinnati and’m in the process of restoring it,” he says.

It sounds like Ridge Carpentry’s remodel can result in a fantastic future Tour. I’ll be keeping my eye on it.

Detroit. “I grew up in a home in Detroit which is very similar to the one I reside in now in Grosse Pointe Farms, Michigan,” says user ruthie11. “They call them Cox and Baker bungalows, and it’s not that I love them, however my spouse and I do a fantastic job renovating it piece by piece to make it fit contemporary needs! We got it for a fantastic price in fantastic condition during the bank-owned phenomenon.” Ruthie11’s latest home is only about 5 kilometers from the one she grew up in.

Thanks so much to all of you for sharing your own stories. Please keep them coming!

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Produce a Long-Lasting Eucalyptus Holiday Wreath

Fragrant and textured, this crazy eucalyptus and juniper wreath may be a pleasant addition to your front door or a wall above a fireplace mantel. Tracy Goldman of Sabellico’s Florist breaks down the measures.

Rikki Snyder

Set against a bright doorway, your handmade arrangement would be sure to be noticed. Or bring it indoors to enjoy its fragrance indoors.

Rikki Snyder

To create this wreath, you’ll need the following greens:
4 distinct types of chamomile: spiral, gunni (baby), flat and seededJuniper sprigs (optional)You may need 1 bunch (approximately 5 to 10 stems) of each chamomile type, available at your local florist.

Added tools and materials:
14-inch metal wire wreath, clamp-style form (available at a crafts store or florist)2 feet of 2-inch-wide burlap ribbonScissorsPruning shearsHammer

Rikki Snyder

1. Lay the metal wreath type apartment. Starting with the spiral eucalyptus, use two pieces at a time to get the foundation coating, trimming to slightly uniform lengths as you go. Place them between the clamps, making sure they are even.

Notice: You can adjust the amounts of each kind of eucalyptus to suit your tastes.

Rikki Snyder

Continue layering all of the way around the wreath base. Keep everything visually even and uniform.

Rikki Snyder

2. Rip little pieces of this gunni (baby eucalyptus) off each pack.

Rikki Snyder

Follow the same procedure as for the spiral eucalyptus, layering each gunni stem in a uniform way.

Rikki Snyder

3. Twist the gunni in addition to the spiral skillet between the clamps, going around the entire wreath, staggering each one and making sure the pieces are even.

Rikki Snyder

4. Layer in the apartment eucalyptus. Considering these leaves are larger, move them more toward the center of the wreath so they do not overpower the foundation coating. Continue layering around the wreath as you did in the previous steps.

Rikki Snyder

5. Now it’s time to add the seeded eucalyptus. As you did with all the gunni, break small pieces off the stems and layer them on top. The seeded eucalyptus adds a unique texture that stands out from the remainder of the wreath, dividing the other silvery textures. Add as much or as little as you like.

Rikki Snyder

6. Snip off small sprigs of juniper from the stems with garden shears. Place each piece carefully on top of all of the other greens.

Notice: At this point, the clamps might be getting harder to see underneath each one of the greens. This is completely normal. As you place the juniper sprigs in the wreath, look for each one of the clamps and be sure each has a sprig of juniper within it.

Rikki Snyder

7. Feel through the greens to Discover the clamps. Push down on each to shut it, so they will hold each one of the greens in place.

Rikki Snyder

Hint: When the clamps are too hard to shut with your hands, use a hammer to gently push them down. Take care not to bruise the greens in this procedure.

Rikki Snyder

8. When the clamps are down, fluff up the wreath. Don’t be afraid to pick it up and give it a fantastic shake to observe how nicely everything remains in place. Be sure that the clamps are coated by the greens. Here, the wreath is propped upon a gentleman’s easel to make it easier to use.

Rikki Snyder

9. To create a hanger to your wreath, cut about 2 feet of 2-inch-wide burlap ribbon.

Rikki Snyder

Turn the wreath upside down and then fold the ribbon through the metallic framework.

Rikki Snyder

Pull it all of the way through and tie a bow where the 2 ends meet at the top.

Rikki Snyder

To add to the rustic appearance of the wreath, you can use scissors to fray the ends of the bow.

Rikki Snyder

This pretty wreath will last for many weeks through the holiday season. Enjoy!

More wreath DIYs:
How to Produce a wonderfully twiggy All-natural wreath

How to Produce a lush and leafy holiday wreath

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Expand Your Living Room Using an Outdoor Fireplace

By rooftop terraces to backyard sanctuaries, a fireplace can transform an ordinary outdoor space into a true extension of your property. Whether you would like to entertain friends or include a few mild-weather square footage for your family, the flickering flame of a fireplace could add to your home’s value and improve your capacity to enjoy it yearlong. These exterior architectural elements can be made in all shapes, sizes and styles to match your home perfectly.

Have a trip using these backyards to inspire your own outdoor fireplace design.

Pedersen Associates

Significant seating. Ample seating constructed around the fireplace helps use an outdoor space on chilly nights.

Tip: Set blankets or seat cushions in your hearth as a layer between bodies and the chilly and hard rock.

Bernard Andre Photography

Double sided. Light and airy, this fireplace has an enlarged opening that makes it seem just there. This layout allows you to enjoy the flame’s warmth from both sides.

Tip: A massive opening and clear opinions like this imply you can sit by the fire while watching your kids at the pool.

Frederick + Frederick Architects

Tall and stately. The tall exterior chimney of this home comprises a quintessential brick and mortar fireplace. The simple style is timeless and durable.

Suggestion: in case you don’t enjoy the rustic or classic appearance of brick, talk to a designer or builder about possibly painting your brick fireplace.

Tate Studio Architects

Architectural element. This home’s roof extends into an integrated built-in fireplace that had to have been proposed in the pattern stage.

Tip: If you reside in a warmer climate, building an outdoor space in your home’s layout will have prospective buyers running for their checkbooks.

Chandos Interiors

Outdoor living area. This outdoor living room feels just like an indoor living area. The fireplace functions as a focal wall but still allows for a open space.

Tip: Even with simple structure, an outdoor fireplace may be customized and accented with the selection of surround and mantel materials.

Milieu Design

Fully integrated. This outdoor fireplace matches seamlessly into the backyard garden with all the built-in overhead pergola. The shady inclusion makes this a fantastic space to invest some time in, day or night.

Tip: Plants may help add colour to a sparse patio design. If a built in pergola isn’t for you, try incorporating pots with colorful flowers.

Tracy Stone AIA

Low lying. Forgo the traditional fireplace for a modern in-ground variation instead.

Tip: Think about your family’s needs. Though this fireplace is beautiful, it isn’t particularly child friendly.

Markus Canter (FCB:Design)

2 for one. These homeowners turned into their retaining wall into a fireplace. A sunken sitting place and stepping stone transform it into a personal refuge.

Tip: Be open minded when it comes to location. There is no rule that says that the fireplace has to be beneath a patio or on a porch.

More: 3 Sudden Reasons to Have an Outdoor Fireplace

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