How to Change an Electric Burner to a Maytag Gemini Stove

Replacing a burner element on a Maytag Gemini stove can typically be done quickly and easily by the owner without the necessity for a support professional. The repair can usually be completed in less than thirty minutes. After obtaining the appropriate part for your particular model, the procedure can be achieved with a Phillips screwdriver. Needle-nose pliers may also assist when removing the cable links. Fundamental mechanical and electrical knowledge is all that is necessary to complete the repair properly and securely.

Disconnect power to the cooker by unplugging it or by closing the breaker off at the electric panel. Verify that power is off by visually checking that the lights are off on the control panel. If you are aware that a burner has been working properly, turning the burner control to the “On” position and checking for heat will further affirm that electricity is off into the cooker. Turn the burner control back to the position.

Open the oven door and use the Phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws that secure the stove top to the framework. There will be one screw at each side on the surface of the door frame.

Lift up slightly on the front part of the stove top and slide the top toward you a couple of inches.

Disconnect the two wiring harnesses at the back of the stove. Keep in mind their alignment or mark them with a felt tip pen for correct reassembly.

Lift the top off the cooker and set it on a secure flat surface with the underside up.

Remove the wires from the burner element. You may need a pair of needle-nose pliers to pull the links apart. Keep in mind their alignment or mark them with a felt tip pen. Connect the wires into the brand new burner; they need to fit snugly. You can also remove one cable at a time and connect it into the new burner to ensure a suitable connection.

Remove the two clips and screws that fasten the old burner into the underside of the cooker top. Put in the new burner in the exact same place as the old one and secure it using the two clips and screws.

Reinstall the cooker top by reversing the sequence of the previous measures and reconnect power to the cooker.

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How to Replace the Bearings of a Front Loading Washing Machine

Even though front load washers are built to last, the sealed inner drum bearing is constantly immersed in water. After extended use, the grease seal breaks, allowing water to the its bearings. Rust soon forms, the bearings fail along with your washer seems like a cement mixer on steroids. Nevertheless, if you have moderate do-it-yourself experience and a few ordinary tools, it is possible to save the expense of professional repairs or replacing by fitting new bearings generally for under a hundred bucks.

Cabinet Disassembly

Unplug the washer’s power cord from the wall socket and then slide the machine away from the wall before starting work. Turn off the cold and hot water supply valves and disconnect the hoses from the back of the machine by undoing the couplings counterclockwise with adjustable pliers.

Disassemble the cabinet by following the steps outlined in your drier’s service manual. Eliminate the V-belt joining the big pulley on the back of the drum to the drive engine. Have an assistant steady the inner drum, undo the bolt securing the pulley into the drum drive beam having a socket wrench and remove the pulley. If your device is fitted with a stator motor driving the drum, then go to the next step.

Remove the screws securing the stator motor wire clamps to the drum casing and disconnect the green ground wire by undoing the connector nut with the nut driver. Have an assistant hold the interior of the drum and undo the drive shaft bolt in the center of the meeting with a socket wrench. Remove the stator from the armature and place it aside.

Undo the bolts holding the stator armature into the drum casing using a socket wrench. Support the bottom and pull the armature from the drum casing carefully. Rotate it forward to access both wire connectors on the bottom of the assembly. Depress the connector locking tabs, disconnect the plugs and then place the armature aside.

Uncouple all hoses and wire connections leading to and from the drum casing. Undo the bolts securing both counterweights into the front of the drum and get rid of the weights.

Disconnect the four shock absorbers supporting the bottom of the drum casing and eliminate the 2 suspensions bend between the sides of the casing on the surface of the drier table. Lift the drum shell out with the support of your helper and lay it face down on two big wood blocks.

Bearing Removal and Replacement

Remove the bolts securing the top half of the casing to the bottom half with the socket wrench fitted with a lengthy extension. Separate the two halves and remove the old rubber seal from the groove on the flange enclosing the bottom half.

Turn the inner casing over and rest the exterior edge on the wood blocks. Squirt penetrating oil around the inner lip of the bearing connected to the drive shaft and let it stand for 15 minutes. Place the flat side of a timber plank on the top of the driveshaft and deliver a couple of hammer blows to the plank until the driveshaft and inner bathtub drop out. Lift the inner half away to reveal the drive shaft connected to the inner tub with a big three-armed aluminum bracket or spider.

Inspect the spider and push shaft carefully. If the spider is broken, or if the beam is damaged or badly pitted, remove the six bolts securing the spider into the inner bathtub and fit a fresh bathtub spider and drive beam. Alternatively, if the bathtub passes inspection, scour the shaft and spider clean with a wire brush and then move the bathtub to a single side.

Place the outer half of the bathtub housing on the blocks with the flange uppermost. Lever the bearing seal outside with the flat-head screwdriver. Clean all rust residue from the bearing cavity and squirt oil around the outer border of the bearing. Let it stand for 15 minutes and turn the casing over. Repeat this process on the inner bearing and permit time for the oil to penetrate.

Wipe either side of the casing clean and eliminate all traces of penetrating oil from inside the bearing cavity. Scour the interior of the cavity thoroughly with a brass or stiff bristle nylon brush to remove any remaining grit and rust residue. Don’t use a steel wire brush.

Smear a film of dishwashing fluid across the outer face of the fresh drum bearings to act as a lubricant. Insert the outer bearing to the cavity and then tap lightly across the outer border with a rubber mallet to line the bearing up. Continue tapping the outer edge lightly with a brass punch or wooden dowel and hammer until the top of the bearing sits flush against the surrounding surface.

Turn the casing over and insert the inner bearing exactly the identical way. You will truly feel the bearing stop when the outer border settles against the step within the cavity. Apply a thin coat of dishwashing fluid across the outer face of the newest bearing seal. Place the seal carefully within the cavity and then press it in with your thumbs until it settles flush against the surrounding surfaces.

Lift the inner drum and line up the shaft with the hole in the bearing seal. Lower the drum carefully before the close of the driveshaft fits within the bearings. Press the drum down until it stops going. Pull the drum to ensure that it’s properly installed.

Insert a new rubber drum casing seal to the groove within the rim of the outer casing. Lower the upper half in place with the bolt holes correctly aligned.

Thread all the perimeter bolts in and snug them down with the socket wrench and extension. Work your way round the border and tighten all bolts evenly.

Reinstall the drum casing and reassemble the device by reversing the steps taken out earlier.

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How to Replace Belts to Get a Craftsman GT 5000

The Craftsman GT 5000 series garden tractors were manufactured by the Husqvarna Group from 2009 to 2011. It’s equipped with transmission and a mower deck. While means of a motion drive belt powers the hydro-static transmission means of a mower drive belt turns the mower deck. These two are poly because they are exposed to wear from usage, heat and weather exposure.

Planning for Belt Removal

Park the garden tractor on a level surface and set the parking brake. The parking brake lever is underneath the control board of the operator, just on the left side.

Push the elevator lever notch in the rear fender to reduce the mower deck allowing access to replace the mower drive belt. Remove when replacing the motion drive belt.

Turn the ignition button off and remove the key. Pull on the spark plug wire from the spark plug , positioning the wire from the spark plug connect while you work.

Mower Drive Belt Replacement

Unhook the mower drive belt tension rod from the mower deck lock mount; hold the rod to stop the tension rod from snapping backward. The mower drive belt tension rod toward the backyard tractor left back tire slowly to alleviate pressure belt tension. The mower drive belt tension rod is about the left side of the mower deck in front of the pulley cover that is mandrel.

Unscrew the left and right side deck pulley cover retaining bolts. Lift the mower deck mandrel covers out of the mower deck.

Remove from round the electric clutch pulley, idler pulley and mandrel pulley. The clutch is directly under the engine pulley.

Insert the side of the mower drive belt into the left and right side mandrel pulley grooves. Thread the belt round the remaining mower deck idler pulleys in inverse order of removal the side of the belt into the grooves along with the flat side from the pulley surface.

Slip the side of the mower drive belt round the electric clutch pulley. Visually inspect the mower deck pulleys to ensure the belt seated and is correctly routed in the grooves.

Replace the covers over the pulleys and tighten the retaining bolts. The mower drive belt tension rod toward the front of the mower deck to tension the mower drive belt. Hook the mower drive belt tension rod into the mower deck lock mount to set the strain.

Motion Drive Belt Replacement

Remove out of beneath the garden tractor frame to get the motion drive belt and motion drive belt components.

Disconnect the clutch wire harness electrical connector. The clutch and clutch wire harness are around the right side inside the bottom frame, directly under the engine. Unscrew the bolt with a socket wrench and then pull on the motion drive belt link that is anti-rotation . The motion drive belt link is directly beside the garden tractor clutch around the front, right side of the tractor frame exterior.

Roll the motion drive belt and clutching idler pulleys, and from round the center span idler. Lift, and pull on the belt slack toward the backyard tractor back the belt up and above the pulley.

Slip the motion drive belt from the garden tractor engine down the electric clutch and pulley. Pull the motion drive belt rearward beyond the steering , allowing you to completely free the belt .

Hold the motion drive belt from the back to the front, pushing on it on steering and the brake pedal shaft toward the clutch. Pull on the belt and about the engine pulley. Push the side of the belt into the engine pulley groove.

Pull on the belt slack toward the backyard tractor rear axle and slide it through the back belt keeper that is trans-axle. The motion drive belt upwards and above the back pulley that is trans-axle. Fit the motion drive belt into the trans-axle pulley groove. Guide the belt the idler pulley that is stationary, around the center span idler pulley, and clutching idler pulleys.

Set back the anti-rotation link into place on the ideal side of the tractor frame and tighten the bolt. Twist together the clutch wiring harness electric connector by hand. Install the mower deck.

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5 Ways to Add Value to Your Home

Your home has to make a first impression. The very first time that buyers or appraisers visit your home, the Appraisal Institute says, you desire their initial reaction to be as positive as possible. Value is subjective, the institute says–every buyer sees a home otherwise –but upgrading key areas of the home and eliminating major defects will typically produce a positive reaction.


Repairing defects to the home like leaky pipes or broken stairs will increase home value more than the total cost of the repairs, according to”Forbes” magazine. The magazine says that repairs are worth double what homeowners must spend on them: A $2,000 plumbing job can boost the home’s value by $4,000.

Bathroom Remodeling

Homeowners who remodel their bathrooms generally see value growth by 88 to 91% of the cost of remodeling, Forbes states. Even simple steps like fixing a sink or placing up additional towel racks will add value.

Kitchen Renovations

Kitchens rank with baths in their importance for home value. Fixing problems like broken appliances or broken cupboards will raise home value, Bankrate says; a comprehensive remodeling can include more. Quality countertops, expansive workspaces and up-to-date appliances add value to your home.


The better a home appears, the more it gains in value. Cleaning, painting, scrubbing, washing windows and shampooing the carpet give a home more value in the eyes of buyers or appraisers, Realty Times states. Clearing away clutter and making sure the rooms are brightly lit will even help.


Mature trees, swings and other garden features can increase home value, Bankrates says; an adult tree can include $1,000 to the worthiness of your home. However, the web site adds, a home is partly judged by the area around it: A front lawn that’s far beyond anything else on the road will have less yield on investment than one that remains at the exact same degree.

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Explanation of the Foreclosure Procedure

A foreclosure can occur on any mortgaged property, whether it’s a private home or an office building. A foreclosure typically begins after the borrower has missed his third yearly payment, although this can vary by country or property type. Although the foreclosure procedure does not officially start until after a few missed payments, the lender normally contacts the borrower well before then, whether to remind him to create his payment or negotiate new provisions.

Foreclosure on Mortgage vs. Deed-of-Trust

A property can be bought via even a deed-of-trust or a mortgage. The distinction is that a deed-of-trust allows the lender to pursue a foreclosure via a”non-judicial ability of sale” (or even a”trustees sale”), which enables them to avoid lengthy and costly court processes. A mortgage, on the other hand, would require the lender to obtain permission from the court and follow its own protocol.

30 Days Past Due

The general timeframe when the lender starts the foreclosure procedure is 90 days after the last missed payment, however, the lender can speak to the debtor as early as 15 days beyond her payment due date. Most mortgage businesses provide the borrower about a two week grace period after the due date each month to create a payment without incurring any penalties. After the grace period, the borrower will begin to incur late fees and will have to bring her payments present within 30 days of their due date.

90 Days Past Due

The lending company will continue to speak to the debtor as soon as he starts to miss payments. But, it is not until the 90-day mark the lender starts to pursue the debtor. At this phase, the lender may issue a Notice to Accelerate, or Demand Letter, which specifies that the debtor has an extra 30 days to reinstate the mortgage prior to the lender officially begins the foreclosure procedure.

Notice of Default

The Notice of Default is issued after the debtor fails to reinstate the loan over the 30-day grace period stipulated in the Notice to Accelerate. Nonetheless, in some instances, the lender will forgo the Notice to Accelerate completely and issue the Notice of Default when the next payment is missed. In this case, the homeowner will have roughly three weeks (depending on state legislation ) after the issuance of this Notice of Default to make the mortgage current or the lender will repossess your property and auction it to the maximum bidder. The couple months involving the Notice of Default and the actual sale of this property presents a critical opportunity for the debtor and lender to negotiate and conserve the property from foreclosure.

Borrower Pre-Foreclosure Options

During the few months leading up to the foreclosure sale, the lender has many tools at their disposal to help the debtor save their property. These include financing modification, refinancing, repayment strategies, short-sale, deed-in-lieu or the President’s Building Home Affordable Plan (that is only available to homeowners who own the property for at least two years and made it their main residence). It’s in the lender’s best interest to maintain the debtor’s ownership of the property. Doing this would allow the lender to keep on receiving interest payments on their investment for a decade or so, thus increasing their profit. Furthermore, the lender’s primary objective is to originate loans that provide them with decades cash flow. Foreclosing on a property would indicate that the lender normally must sell the collateral for under market value, in addition to having spent a large sum on legal and government fees.

Foreclosure Sale

The Notice of Sale is issued after the three month or so period has died and all options, at this time, have been drained. The note will be delivered to the borrower at least 20 days prior to the purchase date and provide information at the time, place and date of their property auction. At this phase, the lending company will place ads in the local newspaper and place a”Notice of Sale” sign on the property itself. The borrower will have up to five days prior to the sale to reinstate the mortgage and stop the foreclosure procedure. Now, the lender will require the borrower to pay the entire loan amount to reinstate the loan. This provision depends on state law. If the sale date has not been postponed, then the land will have been marketed to the maximum bidder. The property will normally sell for significantly less than the market value, and any profits will be used to pay some or all the debtor’s debt to the lender. Otherwise, the land will become a bank-owned property, or REO property.

After the Foreclosure

The foreclosure process can occur between six weeks to over a year to complete, depending on the circumstances at hand. After the foreclosure and the land has been sold, state law may provide the debtor a limited period of time to keep in the property without fear of eviction. According to HUD, this is called the”redemption period.” The terms and existence of this provision depend on state legislation and also the sort of foreclosure proceeding. The state of California, as an example, provides a redemption period only after a judicial foreclosure proceeding and allows the homeowner to keep in the property for up to one year after the property has sold. Some states also permit the borrower to buy back the property by paying off your whole loan amount plus any fees incurred.

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October Checklist for a Smooth-Running Home

In the very first sharp mornings spent raking leaves, to the last exciting days preparing for trick-or-treaters, October is usually a busy month round the home. Mix in mandatory home maintenance (clean rain gutters, roll hoses) with items you have been needing to get to (finish a decorating job, select up gourds for front porch) and you’ll discover your to-do list vanishing before your own eyes. Work your way through the 11 jobs on our checklist, and from the end of the month you’ll have your home winter-ready — and also a little more beautiful, to boot.

Stonewood, LLC

1. Clean rain gutters after leaves drop. Leaves and other debris that clog your rain gutters can lead to leaks, so it is best to get to the chore as soon as possible after the majority of the autumn leaves have fallen. If your home is smaller, and you feel comfy on a ladder, even draining rain gutters is a fairly simple task to do yourself. If your home is more than 1 story, hire an expert.

2. Repair roof and siding. Should you see any damaged areas for your roof, siding or shingles, it is crucial to look after the problem before winter storms come through.

Lands End Development – Designers & Builders

3. Scrub and shop outdoor furniture and gear. From the end of October, with light fading earlier and weather getting less friendly, your outside seating area is very likely to go rancid. Rather than leave out furniture in bad weather, put it away in a drop or the basement. This month, also aim to wash your gardening tools and put them away neatly. Those in cold climates should move winter gear (snow shovel, ice scrapers) to a convenient place now so you don’t need to scramble when the first frost hits.

4. Put up storm windows and doors. Should you use storm windows or doors, now’s the time to get them installed. These features can help conserve energy during cold months and safeguard your home from drafts.

Moore Architects, PC

5. Give porch a fall makeover. Sweep off the summer sand, refresh baskets with autumn flowers, wash front windows and use a broom or soft brush to wash siding up. An armful of decorative gourds and pumpkins makes a simple display that will last all month.

6. Close off outside taps and roll pliers. Freezing temperatures may harm hoses and water pipes, so be sure to shut off empty and taps hoses of water before the first big freeze.

Martha O’Hara Interiors

7. Organize sand room. In the rush of return to college — and work — this tough entryway can take a major beating. Schedule a weekend day to sort through the mud room, putting away unneeded items and paper clutter and cleaning the floors. Invest in a couple of new baskets, bins and hooks to corral items.

Crisp Architects

8. Check security devices. Every home should have a carbon monoxide detector, as well as smoke detectors positioned throughout the home. Take a minute to examine that yours will be in working order, and change batteries if needed.

Shannon Malone

9. Sharpen knives. If you become aware of your kitchen knives becoming a bit harder to use, that is a sign they are due for a professional sharpening. Regular sharpening at home can help prolong the life span of a sharp edge on knives, but once that border is missing, just a pro can bring it back. Make a date to fall off your own knives.

Tim Barber Ltd Architecture

10. Type and store clothing. Don’t let summer swimsuits and shorts take up precious cupboard space yearlong should you only use them for a couple of months!

Alter warm-weather accessories and clothes to an out-of-the-way cupboard in bins with tight-fitting lids. And be sure to store just freshly laundered items — bugs are attracted to dirty clothes but usually leave clean garments alone.

Lisa Petrole Photography

11. Tackle a decorating job from start to finish. Quit dreaming and start doing! Select one sensible job (e.g., a single room or nook) which you would like to transform this month, and make it happen.

It might be helpful if you break your project down into bite-size pieces and schedule tasks throughout the entire month.

Read the DIY projects section

Inform us what’s on your home care record this October?

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What Is Included in Condo Prices?

Having a condominium unit may provide the additional benefits of maintenance and many conveniences to all the benefits of standard home ownership. Condominium may apply to many different home types including free-standing houses, and is a form of possession, not an architectural style. Anyone purchasing a condo unit automatically becomes part of a homeowners association, subject to its own rules, regulations and fees, and should investigate how much the condo fees are and what they pay.

Establishing Condo Fees

Condo owners share ownership of these common elements as roads and recreation facilities. Membership fees, or dues, are established based on a budget that the HOA board of directors sets. The budget is based on expenses, and fees are generally prorated according to the percentage of ownership of each unit. California condo developments are all regulated under the Davis-Stirling Act, which specifies homeowners institutions are”responsible for repairing, replacing, or maintaining the common areas, and owners are responsible for maintaining their distinct interests.” Unit, or Another interest, is the distance bound floor by walls, ceilings, doors and windows.

Recurring Charges

Condo fees fluctuate widely according to the structure of each development. Based on the character of the condominium, the monthly fees may cover sewer and water fees, garbage and recycling collection, insurance for shared places, vendor services, condo management services, recreational services such as pool maintenance, common area lighting, legal fees, and contributions to a reserve account to cover unanticipated expenses.

Regular Care

Condo fees may also be employed to grass cutting and seasonal landscaping, snow plowing and walkway shoveling, exterior painting, roof and chimney inspection and repair, hallway and elevator maintenance and laundry room service.

What the Fees Do Not Cover

Unit owners are responsible for the repair and replacement such as appliances and wallpaper; toilets, tubs and showers; and carpeting. Liability insurance covering the elements is carried by an HOA, and a portion of membership fees go toward the cost of that insurance. However, individual unit owners should carry their condo policy covering loss in case of burglary, fire or other damage; a few HOAs require annual proof of such insurance.

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Homelite ST20 Line Trimmer Instructions

The Homelite ST20 is a electric string trimmer created in the 1980s for residential usage. This lightweight, vintage unit is used to clear away bud and other areas of vegetation. The manufacturer recommends wearing closed-toe shoes, long pants and gloves when utilizing the ST20.

Locate the name plate on the trimmer’s rotating shaft. It records the sort of AC socket the trimmer can be plugged into.

Ensure the trigger button, located on the handle, is in the”Off” position. Plug the trimmer to the extension cord and the extension cord .

By depressing the trigger button Initiate the engine of the trimmer. Maintain the extension cord behind your own body to stop it from being struck by the trimmer string.

Cut weeds by leaning the trimmer head the string contacts and cuts weeds on one side of the trimmer head. Do not utilize the whole circumference area since doing so to reduce weeds and grass may overload the unit. The human body will be discharged out away from by weeds After the trimmer is at the appropriate angle.

Gradually move the trimmer head or weeds you wish to cut. Use just the suggestion of the string. The manufacturer recommends not permitting the trimmer mind to haul on the floor, because doing so causes wear.

Advance string in the unit by releasing the trigger button and letting the engine to prevent, then completely depressing the trigger button to restart the engine. The length that is appropriate is automatically advanced to by the string. It will only feed out when the string is worn to require advancing. Never let the string length become before advancing string. It’s time to progress the string After the engine runs quicker than ordinary or the cutting swath is more than ordinary.

After each use, unplug the debris on the engine with a brush from the fan blades. Grass clippings on the engine home with a cloth or light puff of air from the air intake from an air hose. Clean any bud wound round shaft and the trimmer head. When cleaning the trimmer when beginning the unit, to prevent electric shock, do not use liquids.

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How to Replace a Tub Spout

A home’s tub spout sees a lot of action throughout the years; it supplies the tub with water and may become a rack to get a washcloth. Over time, the threads within the inside of the spout can become stripped, inducing the spout to spin in place on metallic wall pipes or the protruding copper. If the spout is not fixed in a timely manner, water may leak back into the wall and cause damage. A cautious removal procedure will ensure a quick and proper replacement of the spout.

Hand-turn the tub spout in a counterclockwise direction. Use a pulling action as you twist the spout to engage the remaining stripped threads on the spout. The spout that is stripped.

Clean the spout’s pipe of any debris. Brush debris from the threads of the pipe . Wipe any residual dust off with a rag.

If the threads are damaged Eliminate the pipe’s ending nipple with a pipe wrench in a direction. Oftentimes, a tub spout will indicate that the ending threads of the pipe will also be damaged. Will you be able to see the threads for test Just after cleansing the pipe finish.

Place thread tape round both threaded ends of the pipe nipple. The nipple’s size will change, according to the home construction. You are able to take the damaged and removed nipple to match the size to your tub.

Place the nipple on the wall socket and turn it into a direction to affix it into the pipes.

Squeeze a generous amount of silicone caulk around the opening in the wall of the pipe. The caulk must seep slightly to create a seal between the pipe and wall. No water or other materials should be able to enter the wall space. Let me dry.

Place a tub spout and then twist in a clockwise direction until it’s tight and flush against the wall socket.

Turn the cold and warm water with the fixtures of the tub. Allow the water to run through the spout.

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Replacing a Spoonful

The clothes dryer is expected to last between 13 to 14 years and requires repair twice during that time. If you repaired your dryer double, it’s time. Removing the old dryer and installing a new one is. Many countries, including California, require that major appliances such as clothes dryers be disposed of in compliance with all safety and health laws. Hire a disposal services that are complimentary to pick up the dryer and dispose of it.

Close the power off to the dryer in the breaker box. Unplug the dryer. Switch the gas-supply valve in the event the dryer uses gas off. Use a wrench to disconnect the flex gas line. When replacing the gas dryer with an electric dryer, you must call an expert to permanently cap the gas line off.

Disconnect the vent hose and shed, with a screwdriver to loosen the clamps. Lint accumulates in the hose that is older developing a fire hazard, and many exhaust hoses can’t be eliminated without damaging them. A new hose ensures your dryer is danger free and working and is inexpensive.

Lift the dryer and eliminate it. Use the straps included using the dolly to hold on the dryer and eliminate any possibility of tipping during motion. Until it can be disposed of correctly, you must continue to keep the dryer.

Speak to a certified appliance recycling or trash removal agency to pick up the dryer for recycling and disposal. Components must be eliminated from the dryer before it can be disposed of. Many countries require that anybody eliminating hazardous waste such as mercury in temperature control device and the dryer switches must be certified by the state.

Clean the exhaust vent where the dryer lint exited the house. Sweep the ground where your dryer was placed, eliminating all loose lint, dust and debris in the area. Scrub the floor with a brush and soapy water to remove any debris stuck into the ground. Allow the floor dry completely.

Assess the rating on the socket with the energy requirements for the dryer. Clothes dryers require a 240-volt connection.

Twist the dryer into the socket and slip it into place. Turn the power back on in the breaker box. For a gas dryer, join the flex gas line into the gas supply valve and tighten it.

Put in a fresh exhaust vent hose into the vent by slipping it on the house vent and the dryer’s vent, exiting the house and the dryer. Tighten clamps with a screwdriver. Turn on the dryer to test the connections.

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