How to Replace the Bearings of a Front Loading Washing Machine

Even though front load washers are built to last, the sealed inner drum bearing is constantly immersed in water. After extended use, the grease seal breaks, allowing water to the its bearings. Rust soon forms, the bearings fail along with your washer seems like a cement mixer on steroids. Nevertheless, if you have moderate do-it-yourself experience and a few ordinary tools, it is possible to save the expense of professional repairs or replacing by fitting new bearings generally for under a hundred bucks.

Cabinet Disassembly

Unplug the washer’s power cord from the wall socket and then slide the machine away from the wall before starting work. Turn off the cold and hot water supply valves and disconnect the hoses from the back of the machine by undoing the couplings counterclockwise with adjustable pliers.

Disassemble the cabinet by following the steps outlined in your drier’s service manual. Eliminate the V-belt joining the big pulley on the back of the drum to the drive engine. Have an assistant steady the inner drum, undo the bolt securing the pulley into the drum drive beam having a socket wrench and remove the pulley. If your device is fitted with a stator motor driving the drum, then go to the next step.

Remove the screws securing the stator motor wire clamps to the drum casing and disconnect the green ground wire by undoing the connector nut with the nut driver. Have an assistant hold the interior of the drum and undo the drive shaft bolt in the center of the meeting with a socket wrench. Remove the stator from the armature and place it aside.

Undo the bolts holding the stator armature into the drum casing using a socket wrench. Support the bottom and pull the armature from the drum casing carefully. Rotate it forward to access both wire connectors on the bottom of the assembly. Depress the connector locking tabs, disconnect the plugs and then place the armature aside.

Uncouple all hoses and wire connections leading to and from the drum casing. Undo the bolts securing both counterweights into the front of the drum and get rid of the weights.

Disconnect the four shock absorbers supporting the bottom of the drum casing and eliminate the 2 suspensions bend between the sides of the casing on the surface of the drier table. Lift the drum shell out with the support of your helper and lay it face down on two big wood blocks.

Bearing Removal and Replacement

Remove the bolts securing the top half of the casing to the bottom half with the socket wrench fitted with a lengthy extension. Separate the two halves and remove the old rubber seal from the groove on the flange enclosing the bottom half.

Turn the inner casing over and rest the exterior edge on the wood blocks. Squirt penetrating oil around the inner lip of the bearing connected to the drive shaft and let it stand for 15 minutes. Place the flat side of a timber plank on the top of the driveshaft and deliver a couple of hammer blows to the plank until the driveshaft and inner bathtub drop out. Lift the inner half away to reveal the drive shaft connected to the inner tub with a big three-armed aluminum bracket or spider.

Inspect the spider and push shaft carefully. If the spider is broken, or if the beam is damaged or badly pitted, remove the six bolts securing the spider into the inner bathtub and fit a fresh bathtub spider and drive beam. Alternatively, if the bathtub passes inspection, scour the shaft and spider clean with a wire brush and then move the bathtub to a single side.

Place the outer half of the bathtub housing on the blocks with the flange uppermost. Lever the bearing seal outside with the flat-head screwdriver. Clean all rust residue from the bearing cavity and squirt oil around the outer border of the bearing. Let it stand for 15 minutes and turn the casing over. Repeat this process on the inner bearing and permit time for the oil to penetrate.

Wipe either side of the casing clean and eliminate all traces of penetrating oil from inside the bearing cavity. Scour the interior of the cavity thoroughly with a brass or stiff bristle nylon brush to remove any remaining grit and rust residue. Don’t use a steel wire brush.

Smear a film of dishwashing fluid across the outer face of the fresh drum bearings to act as a lubricant. Insert the outer bearing to the cavity and then tap lightly across the outer border with a rubber mallet to line the bearing up. Continue tapping the outer edge lightly with a brass punch or wooden dowel and hammer until the top of the bearing sits flush against the surrounding surface.

Turn the casing over and insert the inner bearing exactly the identical way. You will truly feel the bearing stop when the outer border settles against the step within the cavity. Apply a thin coat of dishwashing fluid across the outer face of the newest bearing seal. Place the seal carefully within the cavity and then press it in with your thumbs until it settles flush against the surrounding surfaces.

Lift the inner drum and line up the shaft with the hole in the bearing seal. Lower the drum carefully before the close of the driveshaft fits within the bearings. Press the drum down until it stops going. Pull the drum to ensure that it’s properly installed.

Insert a new rubber drum casing seal to the groove within the rim of the outer casing. Lower the upper half in place with the bolt holes correctly aligned.

Thread all the perimeter bolts in and snug them down with the socket wrench and extension. Work your way round the border and tighten all bolts evenly.

Reinstall the drum casing and reassemble the device by reversing the steps taken out earlier.

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