What Is Included in Condo Prices?

Having a condominium unit may provide the additional benefits of maintenance and many conveniences to all the benefits of standard home ownership. Condominium may apply to many different home types including free-standing houses, and is a form of possession, not an architectural style. Anyone purchasing a condo unit automatically becomes part of a homeowners association, subject to its own rules, regulations and fees, and should investigate how much the condo fees are and what they pay.

Establishing Condo Fees

Condo owners share ownership of these common elements as roads and recreation facilities. Membership fees, or dues, are established based on a budget that the HOA board of directors sets. The budget is based on expenses, and fees are generally prorated according to the percentage of ownership of each unit. California condo developments are all regulated under the Davis-Stirling Act, which specifies homeowners institutions are”responsible for repairing, replacing, or maintaining the common areas, and owners are responsible for maintaining their distinct interests.” Unit, or Another interest, is the distance bound floor by walls, ceilings, doors and windows.

Recurring Charges

Condo fees fluctuate widely according to the structure of each development. Based on the character of the condominium, the monthly fees may cover sewer and water fees, garbage and recycling collection, insurance for shared places, vendor services, condo management services, recreational services such as pool maintenance, common area lighting, legal fees, and contributions to a reserve account to cover unanticipated expenses.

Regular Care

Condo fees may also be employed to grass cutting and seasonal landscaping, snow plowing and walkway shoveling, exterior painting, roof and chimney inspection and repair, hallway and elevator maintenance and laundry room service.

What the Fees Do Not Cover

Unit owners are responsible for the repair and replacement such as appliances and wallpaper; toilets, tubs and showers; and carpeting. Liability insurance covering the elements is carried by an HOA, and a portion of membership fees go toward the cost of that insurance. However, individual unit owners should carry their condo policy covering loss in case of burglary, fire or other damage; a few HOAs require annual proof of such insurance.

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Can You Eat Daikon Radish Greens?

You can eat all portions of the yearly Daikon radish (Raphanus sativus var. Longipinnatus) and they are delicious. Although many Americans are accustomed to eating just the origins of smaller radishes in salads or as garnish, Asians eat Daikon leaves, commonly referred to as greens, in soups and pickled as in the Korean favorite, kimchi.

The White Daikon

The white, cylindrical Daikon cultivar usually found in American supermarkets is also referred to as the Chinese radish, Japanese radish, Oriental radish and winter radish. Although the word “Daikon” means “great root” in Japanese, the mild, white cultivar originated in continental Asia. It grows up to 20 inches long and 4 inches wide at maturity, weighing from 1 to 2 lbs. You can eat its greens, however, some other Daikon cultivars have more leaves and smaller roots.

Other Daikon Cultivars

Many Daikon radish cultivars grow from 10 to 20 lbs at maturity, though they are typically harvested at 1 to 5 lbs. Some specimens have weighed around 100 lbs. Daikon cultivars might be round, and have black, black, pink, purple or red flesh. Some varieties are grown for their edible greens as opposed to their origins. You might find seeds for soluble varieties in seed catalogs.

Eating The Leaves

Daikon leaves grow in rosettes in addition to the roots. Should you remove the leaves from the plant, the roots will die so you have to harvest them in precisely the same moment. Young leaves are more tender and mild than mature leaves. Many grocers don’t understand Daikon greens are edible and remove them prior to displaying the roots. Some grocers shop the greens in back for people who request them. If they are available, start looking for bright green, fresh leaves and avoid the ones that are wilted or starting to yellow.

Growing Good Leaves

Daikons are winter annuals. Should you plant them in September through October, then they will be prepared to eat in 60 to 70 days. You can plant them in early spring to get a early summer crop, but the leaves will taste hotter. Store both the leaves and roots in the refrigerator over the short term. For periods up to several month, store them in a root cellar or other cool location.

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What Appliances Can Be Connected to your Portable Generator?

If your appliance has a plug, then it is possible to connect it to a portable generator, so long as the generator supplies enough power to power it. You can even plug in several appliances simultaneously, but collectively, they shouldn’t pull more power than the generator can supply. If they do, the appliances will likely do poorly, and you may damage the generator. In addition, the power cords can overheat and start a fire.

Generator Operation

A generator works much like the alternator in your car. A motor that burns a fuel like gasoline or propane spins a rotor wound with a running coil, along with the movement of the coil inside a magnetic field provided by permanent magnets induces an electric current in the coil. Manufacturers design the number of turns in the coil and its period of rotation to supply either 120- or 240-volt power with a frequency of 60 Hz, that is the same power available from conventional receptacles in almost any commercial or residential construction. This electricity is available at one or more receptacles attached to the generator casing. Some generators supply both 120 and 240 volts in distinct outlets.

Generator Rating

The size and efficiency of the engine determines the amount of electricity, measured in watts, so a given generator supplies, and the generator will run any appliance that has a power pull less than its own score. You’ll locate the power pull of an appliance clearly marked on a tag on its casing, usually near the point at which the power cord connects. Adding the power ratings of the appliances that you would like to work with should produce a number smaller than the generator rating. If the number is greater, you can still plug them in as long as you don’t use them in precisely the same time.

Plan for Power Surges

Some appliances, like refrigerators, air conditioners and pumps, draw more power when they start up, and also this power surge can overload a generator. To avoid this, you should double the typical wattage rating for large appliances with motors when deciding the sized generator you want to run them. As an instance, you will need a 5,000-watt generator to run an 800-watt refrigerator along with a 1,500-watt well pump in precisely the same time, despite the fact that they use less than 3,000 watts when running. If the generator is undersized, start-up surges can overload and damage it, and the appliances won’t operate correctly.

Safe Practices

It is better to plug appliances directly to your generator than it is to use extension cords. Cords can overheat and get in the way, and the voltage at the end of a very long cord is less than the voltage at the generator plug. That voltage drop can affect the operation of the appliance you are using. Additionally, because generators have fuel-powered engines and emit toxic fumes, they require proper ventilation; you should never work one at an enclosed area. Finally, remember to ground your generator, then following the instructions in the manual that comes with it. Failure to do so can result in injury.

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"Evaluation Booster" Projects for Home Remodeling

When it comes to increasing your home’s appraisal value, your selection of remodeling jobs ranges from weekend DIY jobs to major overhauls. While no one project acts as a magical ticket — the sum of additional value ranges significantly dependent on the project, quality of work, preferences of your buyers and several market conditions — many property professionals concur that certain jobs add value to your house nearly universally.

Cosmetic Projects

In 2011, Prudential Locations LLC recorded repairing damaged flooring and painting walls as the best renovation projects for increasing home value, estimating an average price of $700 to $750 per project and returns that range from 200 to 250 percent. In an MSN Real Estate article, Timothy Dahl of the Charles and Hudson bureau recommends painting or refinishing your kitchen cabinets and refitting them with brand new hardware to make the most of your appraisal. Dahl predicts the kitchen “the main room in the house to get right.”

Utility Boosters

Rather than adding cosmetic appeal, some appraisal-boosting house renovation projects concentrate on improving utilitarian aspects of the house. Prudential reports a new roof offers an average yield of over 60 percent of the investment — even more with the addition of a skylight — while replacing doors and windows often generates about a 55 percent yield. The National Association of Realtors recommends repairing all the home’s lighting fixtures, electrical elements and pipes for a potential return on investment ranging from about 300 to 400 percent.

Going Green

Based on Old House Web and The Appraisal Journal, energy efficiency — that is both in trend and great for the environment — equals large returns for appraisal value and house equity. Examples of effective, appraisal-boosting “greening” projects include the setup of energy-efficient appliances, eco-friendly insulation, energy-efficient windows and the addition of solar panels. If you wish to take your green renovations outdoors, the NAR advises renovated landscaping — especially mulching along with the addition of plants for maximum curb appeal — for returns of about 215 percent.

Additional Projects

Prudential also lists toilet renovations and new siding as appraisal boosters, citing yield percentages in the upper 60s. Although they may cost thousands of dollars, complete kitchen renovations can result in returns of 70 to 80 percent, according to the same source. For a virtually cost-free project, simply deep clean and declutter your house prior to the appraiser arrives to add thousands of dollars into your home’s sale price. Talking to MSN Real Estate, Brian Trow of Foundations Investment Group notes that this simple project gives the illusion of space, an integral factor for appraisers who place maximum value on square footage.

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Vegetable Planting Guide for Plant & Row Spacing

Properly spacing your lawn plants and rows prevents your plants from competing for nutrients and water. The ideal spacing to use on your garden is based on the size of the lawn and the varieties of plants you’re growing. Each species of vegetable has a minimum quantity of space it must sustain healthful growth. Although you can develop your vegetables at closer intervals, supplying adequate spacing between the plants allows them to develop larger and reduces their vulnerability to competition and disease.

Row Spacing

The ideal spacing between the rows in your garden provides ample space for the plants to develop and also for you to work in. In most cases it is a fantastic idea to leave at least 18 to 36 inches of space between each row of plants. Large garden plants, such as cucumbers, melons and pumpkins, have sprawling growth habits that develop best with rows spaced 60 to 72 inches apart. Spacing your rows slightly farther apart than the minimal spacing for the plants you’re using can provide you with a more comfortable working area, and also the increased growing area for your plants encourages larger, healthier plants. Leaving breaks 2 feet in the middle of long rows supplies simple access to the middle of large gardens.

Garden Layouts

The most frequent garden layout is a series of parallel rows spaced at regular periods that offer space for your plants to distribute and room to work in. Gardeners that are looking to acquire the most of a limited space can use a block layout. The block layout employs exactly the identical spacing between rows and plants to create a grid of plants. Although this type of row spacing lets you plant vegetables, the tighter spacing of the plants may make them more susceptible to drought and competition from weeds. This type of spacing is most effective in fertile soils with good drainage where competition from weeds is minimal.

Small Plants

Smaller garden vegetable plants, such as beets, carrots, mustard plants, onions, pea plants and radishes, require approximately a few inches of space between plants in a row. Somewhat bigger plants, such as lima beans, bush beans, leeks, leaf lettuce, rutabaga, spinach and turnip plants, develop best with roughly four to six inches of space between the middle of each plant. Pole beans require roughly six to 12 inches of spacing, and mustard, Swiss chard and kohlrabi perform best with a spacing of six to nine inches between plants. Heads of lettuce, potato plants and Oriental cabbage need approximately 10 to 12 inches of space between each plant.

Large Plants

Plants with broad foliage or root processes, such as broccoli, cucumber and okra, require between 12 and 18 inches of space between each plant. Providing 15 to 18 inches of space between your asparagus, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, endive, cauliflower, corn and kale plants helps decrease competition and also promotes healthy growth. Large plants that need significant quantities of water require more room to develop. Supplying a spacing of 18 to 24 ins for your eggplant, summer squash and tomatoes ensures they can find the water they require. Winter squash, pumpkins and watermelons perform best when they are planted with a minimum spacing of 36 inches.

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The way to Sand Raised Designs on Coffee Tables

So you’re ready to kick up a little dust — actually — by sanding the raised designs on a coffee table you intend to either paint or paint. Just like sanding jobs, it is better to begin by exerting a mild touch with a fine sandpaper because you could always update your tools and your own efforts. In any case, you do not wish to risk gouging the wood by starting your job with a coarse sandpaper. Sanding is often a repetitive process, so be patient and your table will shortly be smooth as glass and prepared to refinish.

Set the table to a drop cloth or old blanket at your garage. Keep the door open so the area stays ventilated.

Insert the fine sandpaper inserted into a hand sander. Sand the raised designs on the coffee table, using gentle, circular motions. Work from the outside edge to the interior of the plan.

Upgrade your efforts with medium-grit sandpaper for more or much more durable raised designs. Work in a circular motion.

Wipe the layouts from time to time, employing a microfiber fabric. Expand your hand along the surface to ensure you aren’t gouging the timber or creating indentations or gullies in the raised design.

Sand little, ornate designs by wrap a small piece of sandpaper around an old toothbrush so you have maximum control over your sanding efforts. Use cotton swabs to remove dust from tight spots.

Vacuum the layouts with a hose attachment to eliminate as much dust as you can from the table. Wipe the table with a damp rag. Let the table dry.

Run your hand over the raised design in your coffee table to ensure it is smooth. Lightly run the fine seams above the surface to get a finishing touch.

Dust the coffee table, then rub it with a damp rag. Let the table dry thoroughly before you prime, paint or stain it.

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The way to Stiffen Table Doilies

The identical lovely handmade doilies your grandmother and great-grandmother so adored are still a classy, charming touch in any room. Many of the doilies today are machine-made instead of handmade, but you scarcely notice. When you stiffen a doily and use it to get a lacy decorative table setting, the effect is guaranteed to be breathtaking. You have many alternatives to get stiffeners, from watered-down white glue to chemical-laden sprays bought at the store. Attempt your grandma’s and great-grandma’s recipe rather. At times the old-fashioned things are best, just like your doilies.

Fill a small saucepan with 1/2 cup of water. Add 1 1/2 cups of sugar and stir thoroughly. A whisk works best but a spoon will suffice as long as you focus on the pan bottom borders.

Put the pan on a stove burner set to low heat. Keep stirring as the sugar water heats. A low simmer is fine, but do not let the mixture boil. Watch for the sugar water to turn a clear color with a fluid texture, not sugary and white.

Turn off the burner — eliminating the pan in case the stove is electric — and permit the sugar starch to cool to about room temperature.

Dip each doily into a sink filled with very warm water. Put the doilies in an absorbent bath towel and roll up the towel to blot the excess water. Wetting the doilies prevents the fibers from consuming excessive starch. The fibers are fragile when wet, nevertheless, and wringing, pulling and twisting on a doily will stretch it out of shape, particularly when it’s moist.

Drop each doily, one at a time, in the sugar. Wait a minute or 2, then recover the doily and, holding it above the pan along with your sink, gently squeeze the doily or press it between the two of your hands to remove as much excess sugar starch as possible. Avoid wringing, twisting, stretching actions.

Lay each doily on a fresh, absorbent bath towel, leaving a little space around each one. Shape the doilies as appropriate — squaring or rounding into a circle for instance and smoothing out ruffles.

Tack the doilies with stainless steel sewing needles or hooks to avoid shrinkage since they dry. Leave them at an undisturbed place where they will not be exposed to dirt — moist, sticky surfaces like produced by sugar starch pull dirt — for a day or so. Remove the pins and use as desired once they’re dry.

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Native Plants for Containers & Window Boxes

Native plants have a high survival rate because almost all of them are already adapted to growing in their native climate. Because many indigenous plants have been drought-tolerant, they do well in the drier terms of a container or window box, especially in heat, Mediterranean-style climates.

Container Shrubs

Native shrubs are more suitable to grow in containers rather than window boxes in which the bushy branches block the view from the window. One native shrub that grows well in a container is that the desert ruellia (Ruellia peninsularis), a native to Southern California in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. This 4-foot-tall sun-loving plant produces a dense mass of glossy leaves and purple petunia-like blossoms appearing in the late spring. Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) is a southwestern shrub that grows in USDA zones 8 through 11. When implanted in the ground, this sun-loving bush attains 20 feet tall with long spiny stems that stay bare during dry spells. This plant quickly grows leaves and crimson flowers after it rains.

Annuals for Containers and Window Boxes

Showy indigenous annuals grow well in containers and window boxes. Pick short- to average-height plants to grow in the window boxes. Native to the Pacific West is that the California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), which reaches about 12 inches tall with ferny green leaves and summer cup-shaped flowers offered in golden-orange, yellow, cream and red. This native annual closes its petals during cloudy weather. Remove the spent blooms to keep the plants out of developing seed pods. Farewell to spring (Clarkia amoena) produces pink cup-shaped blossoms on sprawling 1- to 3-foot-long stems. This summer flower closes at night and opens again in the morning, welcoming visiting honeybees.

Perennials for Containers and Window Boxes

Short native perennials can endure for years in containers and window boxes. Using perennials eliminates the need to replant the containers every year. One creeping indigenous perennial is that the redwood sorrel (Oxalis oregana), which grows in USDA zones 7 through 9. This shade-loving plant produces shamrock-shaped leaves and white or pink cup-shaped flowers from spring through autumn on 6- to 12-inch-tall stems. “Siskiyou” evening primroses (Oenothera speciosa “Siskiyou”) grow pale pink summer blooms in USDA zones 4 through 8, reaching 8 to 10 inches tall in full sun. Pinch off dying flowers to protect against that perennial from reseeding itself.

Window Box Native Vines

Native vines work best in window boxes in which the stems cascade over the edge of the rim. These plants need a little trim to maintain the size of the vines short enough so that they do not hit on the ground. One native vine is that the “Amethyst Falls” American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens “Amethyst Falls”), which grows well in USDA zones 5 through 9. This deciduous vine reaches 8 to 10 feet long, and is covered in purple flower clusters from spring through summer. “Chauga” wild hydrangea vines (Decumaria barbara “Chauga”) create woody stems reaching up to 40 feet long as back. Clusters of snow white flowers appear in the summer and the dark green leaves turn tan-colored in the autumn. This native vine brings butterflies and grows in USDA zones 7 through 9.

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Size of a Clementine Tree

The citrus fruits commonly called Clementines (Citrus reticulata “Clementine”) are small, thin-skinned mandarin oranges. The sweet treats are a variety of class II tangerines, according to Purdue University. Often seen in shops around the fall vacations, they’re desirable for their usually seedless pulp, smooth skin and petite size. Clementine trees vary in size based on the time of this tree and also the cultivation habits of this grower. They’re winter-hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11.

Tree Appearance

Clementine trees are as appealing as the fruit: compact, around and usually free of thorns, though some hybrids are spiny. The trees have long, slender, bright-green leaves that stand out vigorously against the bright orange of this fruit. Clementine trees possess a rounded crown formed from the drooping branches. They aren’t dense trees, so they don’t require much pruning, as stated by the University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. Sometimes they’re pruned to mend damaged branches, as the wood is brittle and tends to break.

Tree Size

Mandarin trees in general achieve a maximum height of about 25 feet and width of 12 feet. They’re classified as medium-sized trees. Most don’t achieve their maximum size, nevertheless. Just the oldest trees achieve this height. The Clementine tree can be pruned to stay much smaller, though it requires less pruning than other citrus trees. Some Clementines and other citrus trees are cultivated as bushes rather than prepared to develop on one pioneer as a tree. Clementines may also be grown in containers, either inside or outdoors. These potted trees usually range between 8 and 11 feet in height.

Fruit Size and Appearance

Clementines are the smallest among the mandarins. The fruits average a little more than 2 inches in diameter, tending to be somewhat broader than tall. Their small size, coupled with the sweet taste of this pulp, means that they are most frequently consumed as snacks rather than used for canning or juicing. The fruits have bright orange, smooth skin and rich, red pulp.


Clementine trees must be cultivated correctly to achieve their optimum lawns. They enjoy warm but not humid conditions, which means they can’t be easily grown outdoors in many regions of the southern United States. The trees grow best and make the most fruit when cultivated in subtropical conditions, according to the Texas A&M; Agrilife Extension. Clementines prosper in well-draining soil and full sunlight. The fruits are normally prepared for harvesting in November and December, but the fruit is occasionally damaged from early frosts.

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The way to Measure Glass for a Window

Fitting a fresh sheet of glass to an existing window frame depends mainly on cutting the glass to just the right size: too large and it wo not fit, too small and it will not fill the hole. The distance where the glass must fit is bigger than the hole you see, so simply quantifying across that hole will not get the job done. You also must determine the dimensions of the recess to which the glass fits, a measurement known as the “tight fit.”

Locate the outer borders of the glazing beading all over the frame. Glazing beading is that the strips of wood or plastic which overlap the edges of the glass and hold it from the window frame.

Determine the horizontal “tight fit” measurements by measuring the horizontal distance between the two outer borders of the beading on both sides of the window frame at the top and bottom of the frame. Record the dimensions as the bottom and top “tight-fit” values.

Determine the vertical “tight fit” measurements by measuring the vertical spaces between the bottom and top outer borders of the beading on the right and left borders of the frame. Again record the dimensions.

Deduct 1/4 inch from each of the recorded dimensions. For example, if the width throughout the top of the frame is 30 inches, bend 1/4 inch to create a new width of 29 3/4 inches. The adjusted measurements are the values to use for cutting the new sheet of glass. A 1/8 inch is deducted from each side of every dimension so that the cut glass is slightly smaller than the frame. This allows the frame to contract and expand without squeezing and fracturing the glass. Because 1/8 of an inch is removed from each side, the complete removed is 1/4 inch.

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